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The Blackout - 5.9
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Rock
PG-R. Standard Gunks rack. Tri-cams help on P3.
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Description:
Climb the nice crack just right of Betty to a ledge. Climb up the corner, then hand traverse right to the face right of the Betty Chimney and up to a small tree on the GT ledge. Climb up slightly runout rock (tricams useful) to a bolt at the overhang. Traverse right a bit, then up to the top.
Submitted by: troutboy on 2006-10-23
Last Modified: 2007-02-17
Views: 176
Route ID: 54383
7 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 7 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | R |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
decent route
a good route. the roof on p2 is awkward, but good moves. the hand traverse is pure fun.
everyone, online especially it would seem, likes to downplay the seriousness of p3. the moves are around 5.8. if thats easy for you, fine. you move to a couple of small flakey holds. if the one under the roof breaks, you will be seriously injured. just be aware.
the bolt is one of the stupidest gratuitous bolts placed anywhere. it is next to decent gear on the roof, but not low enough to protect the runout face.
everyone, online especially it would seem, likes to downplay the seriousness of p3. the moves are around 5.8. if thats easy for you, fine. you move to a couple of small flakey holds. if the one under the roof breaks, you will be seriously injured. just be aware.
the bolt is one of the stupidest gratuitous bolts placed anywhere. it is next to decent gear on the roof, but not low enough to protect the runout face.
Added: 2009-10-04
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Second ascent by:
Three pitches, two are great
The first pitch is really nothing special. P2 is really fun, a nice exciting traverse. P3 has an unprotected scramble and climb to the roof, clip the bolt, back it up and pull a fun 5.9 roof. It's an easy roof, but, heady move to the roof without gear.
All in all, a climb that was much better than I expected.
All in all, a climb that was much better than I expected.
Added: 2009-08-16
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Fun
Although there is not full value on any pitch, there is good climbing to be had on each. The 5.8 R section is pretty easy but hard enough to wake you up.
Added: 2009-08-02
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
The blackout
Started on P1 Betty, Followed Andy up P2 of Blackout, and rapped off tree in rain. This route is slippery when wet. My hand slipped off a hold, but I didn't hang.
Added: 2008-06-29
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Ascent Note
good variety on this one, the runout section is not that bad
Added: 2006-11-17
