Skip to Content

Routes : North America : United States : New York : Upstate : The Gunks : The Trapps : Welcome to My Nightmare

Welcome to My Nightmare - 5.10a

Average Rating = 1.00/5 Average Rating : 1.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 262
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock (Trad)
R
1
Not much, arguably X.
85
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 1.00/5
  Rock Quality 2.00/5
  Scenery 1.00/5
  Fun Factor 2.00/5

Description:

Start just left of Absurdland. Boulder up to a small right facing corner (crux 1) to a stance 15 feet up. Note that Lost Arrow piton mentioned in Grey Dick is missing. Stuff a horizontal with pro, then move up 30 feet to some crappy sideways nuts and bad micro cams. Continue up 10 more feet to a plant-filled horizontal (and good pro), then make a hard pull past the plants and up an easier left facing corner to the top.

Descent Options:

Rap Absurdland.

Submitted by: lucander on 2011-03-31
Views: 296
Route ID: 108277

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2011-03-26 (View Climbing Log)

1 out of 5 stars Welcome to My Nightmare

Hard move off the ground, and scary move high up moving past some bogus gear. Worth doing...once. I would have bailed from 45 feet up, but I didn't trust the gear and the last good piece was at 15 feet. Glad I onsighted this, consequences would have sucked.

The rock seemed okay, but some of it had a veneer of crispy brown lichen and/or powdery green lichen.

Added: 2011-03-31