On top of a large boulder pile under an immensely overhanging wall about 100 feet right of Silly Chimney. Some people call this the best route in the Gunks regardless of grade. In my opinion it is, but only if you do it in one long pitch (you have to know what you're doing to not get hosed by rope drag if you do this though). Originally done in three. P1: Start up a right-facing corner, step around the corner to the left, and face climb up to a pin and a horizontal at a stance for a belay. 5.8 but more like 5.6. P2: Climb up off the belay (PG) to a fixed pin which can be backed up with a wire. Step left and pull a roof at a modern bolt. I recommend skipping this bolt or at least long-runnering it to reduce rope drag. Face climb back right to a second bolt under the "Mummy Roof." Place the #3 Camalot and pull this roof (5.11c crux, with perfect beta it may feel easier, without the beta it may feel impossible). Climb up and left (PG) to a possible belay in the Mummy Cave. Do NOT belay here - if you blow the second crux you will factor 2 on the anchor. Place gear and reach up to a hollow flake (please don't put pro in here - it's already broken once and it is a crucial hold) over the roof, lieback and step up over the roof. Have your partner give you a bunch of slack here so you fall all the way below the first crux roof and into space. This is rated 11b or c, but is probably 11-/10+. Climb delicately up the corner (PG13) to a Yellow Alien placement. Turn the arete to the right, and hand traverse 25-30 feet on easier climbing to a great belay stance.
Submitted by: jsj42 on 2006-10-23
Last Modified: 2007-02-17
Route ID: 11323
wandering up off the first belay will keep out the riff-raff. The business areas were a bit anticlimactic for me, considering all the thought I gave it. We used the mummy belay with my partner down a few feet. Crux is solid and straight forward, once you find a key hold.
A great route, but best to be solid in the grade before attempting
As the description says, you wouldn't want to blow the second roof. The first roof is hard but the gear is perfect. The second roof is just as hard IMO and the climbing is tenuous until you can place that alien. You would fall a long way if you blew the upper corner.