Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do - 5.9

Tried this on lead and ended up hanging my way up the start. It seemed I remembered more feet than existed from a time I top-roped it. Anyway, it was pretty hard for the first 25 feet or so and then it backed down a bit, although it wasn't exactly easy. I had used up a fair amount of my bigger gear down low, so I had to get creative for the top half.

I missed out on this earlier since I TR'ed it and followed a direct line, but contrary to the guide book (which shows the route going straight up) after the main crack peters out there is a traverse with a horizontal (that accepts gear nicely and serves as good hands) that takes you right to a second crack system that takes you to the top. I wouldn't want to keep going up the licheny area above the first crack to the anchor!

Anyway - my summary is that it's pretty tough, but easily aided/hang-dogged if you freak out.

The start is a bit wonky, but is probably the most entertaining part (on top rope - looks like a pain in the butt on lead). Once you clear the crack chimney thing it was pretty straightforward and I could see places for some kind of gear. The last 30? or so feet it turned into a green sloper wall that didn't have space for gear and was thus a bit run out. The anchor was set back on a decent sized belay ledge (shared by Stab in the dark and perhaps others). There were a few ways to work out the last sloper section, including a slippery roof option if one were feeling bold.

I don't normally put repeat climbs in the database...but I thought it was noteworthy (for me) that I made it up this thing without any grunting/swearing and felt like I floated up the corner. Given the amount of thrashing that went on the last couple times I've led this, I thought this was a good step forward. This is actually one of the better Moore's climbs and a rare continuous crack.

Glad I had beta on the start, otherwise I would have made this climb WAY more difficult than it should have been. Turned out really fun!

The top is more enjoyable!