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Do or Dive - 5.10a

Average Rating = 4.06/5 Average Rating : 4.06 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 60
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (19)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.43/5
  Rock Quality 4.29/5
  Scenery 3.57/5
  Fun Factor 4.14/5

Description:

Just left of Nuclear Crayon and Quaker State. Hard moves at the bottom to easier climbing toward the finish.

Submitted by: joshclimbnc on 2005-10-19
Views: 1099
Route ID: 38084

19 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
Red Point Red Point ascent by: mjwestla on 2012-04-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars about time

Finally got the gear wired, my head on straight, and went for the lead. Figured out how to rest below the crux roof and plug in the hard to find nut a little over the roof, cruised the crux runout and got the bomber nut and backup small cam after only to accidentally skip the next key placement and create just as big a runout as the mandatory one. Stupid. Anyway, it went pretty smoothly except I had to dodge a bit right to avoid a rope tangle after the big diagonal crack near the top as a party on Raise Hell decided to take their line that way instead of straight up. Whatever - I'll take the RP.

Good route to have the beta wired on if you aren't strong enough to just hang on through sustained pumpy climbing. Some long falls possible, although most are probably safe. I'd say one 10a move followed by pumpy 5.9 stuff until it backs off again. Nothing flashy, just pretty good sustained face climbing.

Added: 2012-04-15

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Solo Solo ascent by: forkliftdaddy on 2010-10-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Part 3

At times it seemed like my brain was just along for the ride; my body knew the moves better than my mind. Still got just a taste of pump....

Added: 2010-10-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: mjwestla on 2010-08-21 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars interesting and fun

May try a mock lead next time just to see what happens + what kind of gear it takes. A bit pumpy in spots though... Definitely feels like the middle sibling between Raise Hell and Quaker State.

Crux a bit thin and strenuous.

update - did the mock on a HOT day and just about slid off the wall from all the sweat. Made it through the crux ok but would love to know where that brassie is supposed to go if I try this for real... anyone?

Added: 2010-08-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: tks on 2010-05-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars mental crux

not really runout per se (only 5 or 6 feet over key nut placement when you get some really great gear), but being that far above a brassie made me sweat a little.

Added: 2010-05-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: csproul on 2010-05-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars I don't normally

log in repeats, but I took a long fall off this route last week and climbed it clean this time, so it felt redemptive. A "corrective emotional experience" as my social worker/climbing partner likes to say.

Added: 2010-05-11

... Read all 19 ascent notes