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Dromedary - 5.8

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Rock (Trad)
G
2
Standard rack with some larger pieces. I was happy to have 3,4,5 size C4s although one might do without, depending on the line taken. A #5 helpful for the large overhead crack at the top.
100
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 2.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 2.00/5

Description:

The start is located in the obvious orange corner to the right of the start of Wailing Wall, this route ascends a series of low angle faces, chimneys and an arching corner/overlap to top out in a small gully. P1: Start up the face in the corner or up the far end of the arete and dodge right of the imposing low roof. Work up through the chimney, stemming and getting good gear in the back (sling long) until you can make the exciting and exposed move out onto the right side to pull up onto the belay ledge. Might be possible to go left but I didn't try that. P2: From the belay head either up toward the large crack (protects and isn't too difficult) or launch into the unprotected face to your right. Either follow the crack to the top, pull the lip and top out or work out to the arete edge (Looks like thin gear till the arete) and top out from there. I did it in 2 pitches, although it may be possible to do it in one if the rope drag didn't kill you. There is an excellent belay patio ledge about 50-60 feet up that you can't miss. Be wary of rotten and occasionally wet rock and climb carefully! Fun and varied!

Descent Options:

Top out and reach a rap station of slotted nuts and cable tied to rap rings on the right side of the gully wall (some folks use this to get down from Wailing Wall) or use and/or upgrade the grotty slings and rings around the constriction at the top of P1

Submitted by: mjwestla on 2010-05-15
Last Modified: 2010-05-17
Views: 793
Route ID: 104814

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2 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: csproul on 2010-11-15 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars finally got...

...around to doing this, or at least what I think is the line. Started on the face just right of the Wailing Wall crack and up to a awkward overhang, and up a face to a large belay ledge. 2nd pitch was the wide crack (at least a #5 or 6 C4). Lots of bad gear and bad rock, and not really a great route.

Added: 2010-11-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mjwestla on 2010-05-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars lots of sections of different styles, unusual route for Moore's

Starts with an easy low angle face start with horizontals that take gear, although the rock quality is pretty dubious. From there it gets more interesting, with moves up the chimney involving cracks and stemming. This culminates with a committing and airy move (that protects well) onto the right side face, vertical at this point, and takes you to the belay ledge. From here it's up and and away via the big overhanging crack system.

Another exciting move takes you off the belay ledge and onto the face proper - either starting at the crack up high with a short hand traverse or straight up on crimps to the ledge, although the latter is not protected.

Beware of the hollow flake just inside the upper crack on the face side and be careful with your pro. Looks intimidating but excellent footholds and the overhang provide everything you need.

Routefinding was a bit of a challenge but I think several lines will go at a similar grade as long as you are mindful of getting good pro where you can. The #5 C4 was my last piece about midway up the high corner flake and I was quite glad to have it since otherwise this corner might be very runout. Tackling the arete might be a better option for gear but the traverse to it looks tricky - the only crack is big and it's probably going to be at your feet.

Good route, provides some practice for some different skills than a lot of other Moore's lines. Hope it sees more traffic. I'll try to post some more pics when I get a chance.

Added: 2010-05-15