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Quaker State - 5.11a

Average Rating = 4.69/5 Average Rating : 4.69 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 50
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (21)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.64/5
  Rock Quality 4.64/5
  Scenery 3.64/5
  Fun Factor 4.64/5

Description:

This thing is pretty sustained. Less than vertical almost the whole way. You can lead the 5.7 all the way to the right of the wall and set up a TR on this climb. A 60m rope just barely gets to the ground for a TR or Rappel from these anchors.

Submitted by: greyghost on 2005-10-19
Views: 1386
Route ID: 19244

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21 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: mjwestla on 2015-04-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars done

Back for the RP on attempt two. I noticed I tend to miss the key right hand crimp at the upper crux when leading versus TRing. There is a sorta decent red C4 you can place in a pod up around there but it may be more trouble than it's worth. It's been fun climbing it on TR over the years as I come down from other routes and it was satisfying adding the RP lead experience. Very nice route that takes gear well but would be a challenging onsight effort.

Added: 2015-04-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
Red Point Red Point ascent by: gogalac on 2014-05-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars quaker state

lead after tr'ing and figuring out gear. While the climbing is pretty casual figuring out the gear onsight would be pretty difficult. Slung one chicken head over the last 50 feet or so. Fun stuff.

Added: 2014-05-31

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: A-Bowl on 2012-10-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars head game grade?

Climbing was 10b, gear was less than ideal, especially for a "5star" so it did feel harder on the onsight. Height and quality of rock does make this pretty good, for moores.

Added: 2012-10-07

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: clemsonscooby on 2011-03-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Classic

Loved this route from start to finish. Great gear, movement, and position. Stellar!

Added: 2011-03-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: csproul on 2010-05-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Headpoint ascent

I've worked this on TR and memorized the gear, and sent it today. It felt smooth and never felt like I was going to fall. A proud send for me.

Added: 2010-05-16

... Read all 21 ascent notes