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Stab in the Dark - 5.10d

Average Rating = 4.11/5 Average Rating : 4.11 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (10)
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Traditional - nuts, 1.5 to 3.5 Friends, tri-cams
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.75/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.25/5

Description:

Start left of Shithook, around the corner from Breaking Rocks. Boulder up to some good gear, step left to the crack. Thug it up to the horizontal and the crux then pick your way carefully up the arete to the top. Runout up high.

Submitted by: forkliftdaddy on 2005-10-19
Views: 1309
Route ID: 66652

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10 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: mjwestla on 2015-04-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars done

RP - went smoothly this time largely due to no fiddling with unnecessary extra pieces.

Added: 2015-04-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating PG13
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: mjwestla on 2012-06-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars getting there

Went for it and ended up with 2 hangs on the face just below the actual crux. Got the gear beta wired and now I've just gotta get on and keep moving. Flamed out coming around the start corner placing the key nut and and cam(s) just before the crux. I have a feeling it'd go better on a day that wasn't so freakin' hot. Hard time sticking to the crucial jams when sweating so much but was happy to pull through the crux once I actually reached it. Still on the list awaiting a clean ascent...

Added: 2012-06-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: csproul on 2012-04-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars redpoint

A moores wall classic. Cruxy right off the ground and through the crack and then some runout 5.9 climbing after a nice rest stance.

Added: 2012-04-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating PG13
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: mjwestla on 2011-07-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars tried it before on TR...

and found just as tough this time. Got the start pretty well now, with a heel-hook into a drop knee but flamed out trying to get a handjam going at the horizontal 2/3rds of the way up the crux crack section around the corner. Partners were able to get jams in the vertical or horizontal crack but I couldn't find a good fit in either. Ended up liebacking the moves and that seemed to work but is quite strenous. Handjam looks like it makes for a good rest mid-crux... the arete above is thin and balancy without gear to keep you off the ledge just over the crack section. However, if you are leading this that section you'll be fine above if you find the right holds. Beta makes this route more reasonable, otherwise it'll test your grip endurance.

Added: 2011-07-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: gogalac on 2011-05-22 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars stab in the dark

bouldery start, crux in the crack, then an awesome, delicate arete with sparse gear. nice!

Added: 2011-04-25

... Read all 10 ascent notes