| Safety Rating
Finally got around to it
Been looking at this for a while and finally got up the nerve to do it. Was a bit scared by the other Moore's 8 I tried (Super Direct) but this was way more reasonable. Sustained overhanging moves up stellar jugs with excellent pro (C4s .5-2 do the job). I just slammed cams home every so often and flew up this thing. It's more fun if you go straight up after you turn the corner from Golden Earring. I broke it up into two pitches by putting in a gear anchor just after that corner (mainly to re-collect some of my gear from GE). Fantastic belay ledge and crack for gear+small tree at the start around that corner. Getting around the corner is a little weird but getting a foot out helps; it's just a little awkward.
Can't wait to get on this again and see if I can extend the overhanging bit a little longer before I bail out to the easy section. Seems a little intense for an 8, but maybe that's just classic Moore's sandbag grading. I'd give it 5 stars if it was longer and didn't have the crappy low angle top out. Easy to scramble off to climbers left to get to the anchors for Golden Earring.