Start near the refrigerator crack left lf Breaking Rocks. Climb easy, blocky features (left of the wide crack) up and left angling for the the left edge of the Zombie Woof roof. Turn the lip of the roof and make for the flake high on the wall left of the roof. Watch for loose rock.
Submitted by: forkliftdaddy on 2006-08-29
Route ID: 79291
Onsight of the proper ending, RP of the start. Got back on this and followed the arching crack out right. Longest pitch I've done at Moore's by far. You top out higher than the belay of Step and Fetch in a little alcove next to some small trees.
Fun stuff but definitely some loose rock - in particular, partway up the wide crack at the start there is a large loose block on easy ground that can be readily avoided, plus the top of the highest point of the arching flake has a large loose block but again this can be dodged.
Nice harder climbing from the area just right of step and fetch's beginning up to the end but a bit licheny. Probably some fragile holds so climb carefully through there. Was very nice to have a #2 and #3 C4 size for that upper undercling crack. Crack isn't totally a powerful undercling move and careful footwork can help make it more reasonable than it initially appears. You are pretty high up over a lot of nothing when you hit that undercling area, so the exposure is pretty exciting.
The low wide crack on easy ground can be protected but space out big gear thoughtfully. I did it with a #4 and #5 C4 but would have felt it was G if I had one more #4 maybe. Not hard, just don't blow it!
There was an old sling and cord around a couple trees but I wouldn't want to rap off of them (note - it's DEFINITELY a two rope rappel if someone were to update them) Pretty easy to hike up a little and make it back to the Quaker State/Golden Earring anchors via a little trail and downscramble. Probably preferable to the rap off the scrawny trees.
I was pleasantly surprised to find this was actually a pretty good line. It was fairly easy and straightforward up until the main flake I was following ran out and I hit the headwall. From there the routefinding was a bit more challenging and there was considerably more lichen. I ended up trending left through a slight overhang, chasing the occasional horizontal for gear until I could traverse left and exit at the top of Step and Fetch. Fun move at the end stepping across the void onto a point. Nice long route; I'd guess I had about 40' or so left of the 60m rope left to pull once I topped out although I did continue to where the top flattened out to sling a boulder. I suspect there are several possibilities for top outs, including continuing up the headwall to the treeline instead of dodging left. The lichen and fact I was running low on gear plus the less than obvious line caused me to take the line I did. I had one BD Camalot #4 but might have been happier with at least 2 of them since it would have lessened a little of the runout near the middle and bottom.
I really recommend this route, it's got several nice rests along the way and reminded me a little of Sentinel Buttress P2 in places, although it does finish strong so be prepared. Get on it and help clean it up!