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finger love - 5.10a

Average Rating = 3.20/5 Average Rating : 3.20 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Rock (Trad)
1
60
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.67/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 2.50/5

Description:

one of those rare continuous finger cracks in nc. thin and thinner at crux.

Submitted by: boo on 2006-11-18
Views: 824
Route ID: 81225

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: mjwestla on 2011-04-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars short but sweet finger crack and burly exit traverse

Bomber gear available whole way, although some is a bit small. Literally I would have been able to get something every 4 or 5 feet if I wanted (and in some spots did). Just below the top out into the traverse I had to use purple and grey mastercam/tcu sizes but they were probably among the best placements of those pieces I've ever made. SOLID. I was able to get a bit higher and place a really good .3 BD C4 above that too before committing to the full crux, so that was well protected. Falls are super clean the whole way up. Nice and balancy up to the top, semi-strenuous and just a little thin. Final crux on the crack required a couple solid finger locks without much feet. I'm sure I'll get it next time, I was just out of gas by the time we got there today. Beware of the loose "brick" halfway up. Not sure if it'll come out but it wobbled when I stepped on it.

Traverse exit protects well with a great #1 C4 at the start on top of the crack and I was able to get away with an overcammed 5 midway out (but a 4 will probably do) and there is also a small cam placement if you have any left. At the end I clipped the rap station as my final piece before pulling around the bulge to get out of the traverse.

Really, although the top of the crack was hard, it's very clean and aidable if necessary. The traverse is intimidating and awkward; a totally different ballgame than the crack section. The route is a nice 1-2 punch of two very different types of climbing. Will come back for the redpoint (but may not start on Breaking Rocks next time so I don't get pumped out!) Had a love hate relationship with my helmet since it kept getting stuck but also allowed me to use my head to press into the roof.

Added: 2011-04-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: csproul on 2009-10-11 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars only wish the finger crack was much longer

The finger crack portion was fantastic but too short. The exit was pretty burly.

Added: 2009-10-11

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: forkliftdaddy on 2009-07-07 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Youch!

A bit hard on the fingers, but cool. Exit is, well, what it is.

Added: 2009-07-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: rcnc21 on 2007-06-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars great route

Fell at the crux a few times but the gear is bomber. The travers out right (finish of doan's pills) is def. awkward.

Added: 2007-06-24

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: yekcir on 2007-03-25 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Better than it looks

The traverse out the roof is the real eye-opener...

Added: 2007-03-26