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Double Ought (00) - 5.8

Average Rating = 3.80/5 Average Rating : 3.80 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
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nuts, tri-cams, friends/camalots
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.67/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 3.67/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Found by scrambling up the gully to Hanging Gardens, midway up gully/ramp..good face with three fun sections finish with roof/crack. Rap single rope of shuts to the top of the gully.

Submitted by: hodadicalmaster on 2005-12-15
Views: 922
Route ID: 44836

6 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mjwestla on 2011-10-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good, slightly challenging 5.8

Nice route once you find it. I felt that the moves were all pretty reasonable but the pro was mostly small and fiddly, although safe overall. Wouldn't be as easy for a newer 5.8 leader to really sew up as many of the other routes, plus there was some suspect rock near the bulgy crux. It's the kind of route that feels easy if you aren't aware that some of the quartzite crystal clusters you are tempted to really crimp may be only loosely attached. That with the smaller slightly sparser gear make it just a bit more serious for an 8. The roof near the top (aim right as you get close to the smaller tree) was pretty easy but the only gear I could get that would protect a fall well was a very small nut - maybe a ball nut would work well there too? Too small even for a double 00 tcu! May be possible to get something larger in the wet convoluted crack below the roof too...

At the time of this posting there was no set of shuts to rap from (as mentioned in the description) but a cord (very tight!) with a couple biners around a mid-sized boulder about 10 feet right and about 10 feet back from the edge. We added some webbing and a ring to help back up this rap anchor. I think a 60m will get you back to the gully if you angle hard left back up the gully and have good rope stretch. A 70m or two ropes might be a safer bet. There is also a set of bolts with only webbing as a sort of sketchy anchor for the first bit of Hodadical Master. Maybe rings there too but I couldn't tell.

Note that the route ends below a GIANT roof with one hard bolted route and another hard trad line. The Kelly guide topo sort of shows it ending out right of these but it's actually right under them on a very large platform.

Start is a bit hard to find, but it's a thin looking corner that looks harder than 5.8 and doesn't look like it has gear - the pieces are there but just small. Be solid with small and creative gear and bring a lot of yellow alien/master cam/whatever to .75 BD size pieces for best effect. I don't think I used anything bigger than .75 until I built my belay anchor.

I'd probably call it just slightly less safe than G since you end up about 5 feet over small slightly dubious gear in a few places.


Added: 2011-10-17

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: forkliftdaddy on 2008-10-12 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Fun with surprising crux

Fun route. I found the lower section had one big chunk of suspect rock, but that was easy to climb around. Crux was well protected.

Added: 2008-10-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: chezdillon on 2008-05-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good Route

Good Route

Added: 2008-05-05

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ej on 2007-10-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Double Ought

very small pro at the start

Added: 2007-10-07

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: csproul on 2006-10-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Start at the only (relatively) flat spot on the scramble/approach to hanging garden. Double rap anchor is fairly rusted.

Added: 2006-10-01

... Read all 6 ascent notes