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Whipping Post - 5.10a

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (9)
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Rock
take a full rack... three bolts on it..1 at the crux..50m..
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.20/5

Description:

scramble up to start..angle to right of large roof crossing wall..pass the crux..good face ..some crack....lots of gear and slings... double rope rap from finish or scramble toward the Hanging Garden side of the ledge for single rope rap.

Submitted by: hodadicalmaster on 2005-12-15
Views: 742
Route ID: 44837

9 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mjwestla on 2013-06-01 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Nice route

Start is hard to find unless you know where it is - almost immediately after you scramble up to the ledge that the hanging garden gully starts on (right side) there is a left leaning 15' or so tall block above to your left with another ledge a bit left. Scramble up between the two and step across to the the block out right (careful a fall would be BAD but it's not hard). A nice flat ledge awaits and a good belay stance with a tree to anchor to. Above you will see two bolts indicating the line on the licheny face.

Follow these up and plug what pro you can through the 7/8ish climbing aiming for the roof. This is the same 3-4 foot roof capping the wall across the face of the other hanging garden gully face climbs.

Work your way near the arete and eventually you'll see another bolt in the middle of the face just above the roof. This protects the crux. Clip and have fun puzzling it out.

Follow weaknesses in the rock more or less straight up until you end at some old rusty bolts below the massive First In Flight roof at the top.

There was a slung block towards the middle of the roof patio area we used to rap down to the gully in a single rope rap with a 70m. Take care to not rap off the ends.

I had a bit of a hard time figuring out the crux moves, moving back and forth until I had something that worked. Didn't need anything bigger than a C4 #3 and couple probably have gotten away without it. Small cams were nice in a few spots. Long route with great exposure. Nice and shady on a warm day!

Added: 2013-06-01

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: kyleht287 on 2009-10-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great Exposure, Good View, Nice Long Climb!

Bolt right where you need it. I looked around and couldn't find any protection and there was a bolt right in front of my face! Didn't have a 2nd rope to rap with, so we scarmbled to the 4th class gully and rapped off some trees.

Added: 2009-10-25

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: forkliftdaddy on 2008-05-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Nice to do it again

Fun route. Lots of puzzles to solve, solutions I'd forgotten.

Added: 2008-05-18

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: ej on 2007-10-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Whipping Post

None

Added: 2007-10-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: erica on 2007-09-22 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Nice and long!

Good route - we ran into a bee's nest in the dead tree at the belay area after the scramble. Reach up and left for a pretty good crimp at the crux. Simul-rapp'ed on double ropes

Added: 2007-09-23

... Read all 9 ascent notes