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Blue Chock - 5.10b

Average Rating = 4.17/5 Average Rating : 4.17 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 22
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
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Rock (Trad)
G
Full rack
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.75/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.25/5

Description:

Starts right of Headjam and follows a layback corner and crack that trends up and left. Aim for a large, dark corner with a notch at the top that leads to a belay up and right. Can be done in one long pitch if you're mindful of rope drag.

Submitted by: seanb on 2007-06-23
Views: 1125
Route ID: 73429

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7 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mjwestla on 2013-05-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Nice route

Did as one pitch. Very easy for the first half or so up through the flake start (easier than it looks I thought) then it starts to get progressively thinner as you move up through a series of left trending flakes. These culminate in a bit of 5.9ish thinness taking you to the crux pocket/undercling where the crack sort of crosses through a small X with the pocket being in the middle. Anyway, finagle small gear into slots as best you can without blocking crucial handholds and puzzle out the crux sequence. Make sure the pro is good because it's the best gear you'll get for a little while. Bust the move and land on a low angle apron and plug the tiniest cam (000 master cam for me) you have and/or a micronut to protect the thin traverse. This is tricky but be sure to look for some holds on the bulge above although nothing is all that hot until the end. Either pull the bulge roof as soon as you reach a very good hold as I did, or continue over to the corner (partner said this was plausible). I was short the one piece that *might* have protected the roof pull in a marginal horizontal (yellow or orange master cam?) so my pro was the thin gear at the start of the traverse. Wasn't thrilled about that but thankfully if you keep looking decent crimp shelves are there to be worked with, although they aren't fantastic until you are nearly done with the move. This puts you into the overhanging dark corner, which can be dispatched with some stemming up until the end where an awkward topout awaits.

Good climbing all around, although a decent piece of gear near/at the end of the traverse would make it safer. Be careful with rope drag at the start and take a good number of runners, it's a long pitch and you don't want to fight the rope at the end.

Added: 2013-05-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: csproul on 2012-08-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars done as...

...one pitch. run it out and/or sling it long up the first 25 ft or so. Protects well through the crux, but gets sparse after that with some runout traversing and 5.9 climbing. Some choss near the end while pulling onto the Washboard ledge.

Added: 2012-08-06

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: warrenw on 2012-04-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun times.

Did this as two pitches. Very enjoyable. Crux is both a bit burly and a bit tricky.

Added: 2012-04-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
Onsight Onsight ascent by: bdc on 2011-10-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars This route will hit you in the face!

And spank your butt with its hand!

Added: 2011-10-09

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: tks on 2009-06-21 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars stiff for 10a

long crux section, but very well protected with a pink tricam, a small micro cam, and a BD .3 for the business.

Added: 2009-06-22

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