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Central Cleft - 5.6

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Rock (Trad)
Gear to 4"
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 2.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


Left of Dolphin Head and Southern Exposure is a wandering wide crack in a deep cleft. Climb into and then stem the cleft, passing the most difficult bits to the left on good holds. Don't inhale the lichen and keep an eye out for loose rock. Keep an eye out for gear outside the crack. Route ends near the tree and chockstone anchor.

Descent Options:

Rap from the tree and chockstone anchor or walk off.

Submitted by: forkliftdaddy on 2008-06-27
Views: 1300
Route ID: 94413

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3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: mjwestla on 2011-10-23 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars lead

Remembered following this a while back (hey look, so does and decided to wrap up the day with this.

Actually pretty fun, lots of options. Staying in the cleft/chimney has a few slightly harder moves but the route will take about as much gear as you can throw at it. Falls where the chimney is wide could be rather messy. Most of the rock seemed ok, except for the thin plate about halfway up with a hole through the middle - be careful how you use that. Getting around without putting too much weight on it was the crux for me. Meander right towards the top to end up at the Southern Exposure station. Full single rope rap.

Added: 2011-10-28

  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: mjwestla on 2010-05-15 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars On par with several other easier Moore's routes

This is the appealing and obvious feature left of Southern Exposure and a bit left of its rap line. It's a nice long route (about 100') of decent climbing the whole way up. One suspect flake to negotiate around and a few licheny bits but generally decent gear options. The line we took dodged the Southern Exposure chimney so that we didn't really overlap with that route at all but ended at the same place. A little more exciting near the top. I'd say it's probably as good as Easy Hard or Washboard; it should get more traffic.

edit: initially I thought this was the rap line and posted there, but now that I think about it, we most likely did this route.

Added: 2010-05-16

  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: forkliftdaddy on 2008-06-27 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars No big gear required.

Rope soloed this fun line. Just watch for a bit of loose rock and don't inhale the lichen. Stem and use the jugs outside the crack for the harder bits. Seemed to have been done before. Can be done with gear up to #3 Camalot, though a 4" piece is nice to have.

Added: 2008-06-27