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Head Jam - 5.5

Average Rating = 3.69/5 Average Rating : 3.69 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 20
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (16)
Rock (Trad)
G
1
Trad
110
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.60/5
  Rock Quality 3.70/5
  Scenery 3.80/5
  Fun Factor 3.70/5

Description:

Starts in cracks 15 feet left of a left-facing corner.

Submitted by: bootleg on 2007-06-23
Views: 425
Route ID: 68466

16 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 16 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: jsj7051 on 2009-08-01 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Head Case

2nd time climbing,1st time leading. Like I said befor, if your a new leader this is not an easy lead. More like a 5.7 move out and around the head jam. I got realy sketched out at all the green alge/moss on the rock form the ground to the jam. The best part of this climb is the belay ledge to sit and enjoy the view in the shade. Probably won't do this one again any time soon.

Added: 2009-08-01

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: llkenned on 2009-07-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun, crux tested me though.

As a new trad leader, I was shakin at the crux. Threw a .5 into some vertical crack w/o even looking and had to move on.

The second pitch of the Buttress and this climb are supposed to be the same difficulty?

Added: 2009-07-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: knieveltech on 2009-07-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Heady for the grade.

bring big gear for the crux or risk getting your helmet stuck.

Added: 2009-07-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: cwo2 on 2009-06-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars '

Climbed up into 'head jam' & reached high to place BD#5 cam; stepped down & used good underclings out left to negotiate the crux move to easier ground; continued past rap ledge & built gear anchor (good med.nut & couple small cams) just above another (questionable rap) tree at the base of a chimney. P2: At a break in the chimney, I opted to make an exposed step up & out to the right, following good horizontals up to belay at a huge ledge with a truck-sized boulder & a tree; one of those 'good' horizontals broke under my foot & bounced its way down the chimney to strike my belayer in the leg (Sorry, Rob). P3/rap: Up & over the boulder, it was a bushwhack across, around left & down to a rap tree (not really climbing, but a fall would NOT be good... we roped-up); Completed rap from large ledge w/ slung block & small tree.

Added: 2009-07-02

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: bigredscowboy on 2009-06-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars .

stout considering the crux was wet. moved left into crack

Added: 2009-06-06

... Read all 16 ascent notes