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Killer Flying Scorpions - 5.7

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 20
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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?? 8/11/2007
Rock (Trad)
G
1
Trad, small to medium sized
90
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.75/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.00/5

Description:

Start about 12 feet left of Head Jam in the small vertical crack. Route goes straight up. About 2/3 of the way up there's a harder direct approach or easier lines just left or right of that section, stay well left of head jam until the belay ledge where you can build a trad anchor directly above this route. Could be top roped after leading EasyHard or HeadJam to the belay ledge.

Descent Options:

Use the rap rings to the right on the ledge at the top of Head Jam. There is another set of anchors several feet above the ledge but a 60meter rope will not reach from the higher set.

Submitted by: m_daughtridge on 2008-09-27
Views: 758
Route ID: 92698

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: FatSherpa on 2013-09-17 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Route is the Original Easy Hard

I talked with Tim Fisher. The route described here is the original Easy Hard. I would suggest a name change to "The Original Easy Hard."

Added: 2013-09-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ej on 2011-09-14 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars A step up from Head Jam

IMHO this might not be the best 5.7 for a new trad leader -especially if it is "greasy" from recent rains. The offwidth crack in the first 25 feet is harder than it looks and the pro was less than ideal.

Added: 2011-09-15

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
Onsight Onsight ascent by: forkliftdaddy on 2007-05-28 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Fun variation

I rope soloed this line a few years back (and also figured that it had been done by others). I thought the crack made a fun (and harder) start to Easy Hard and/or an awkward start to Head Jam. Later, with a partner, I found the direct line between the two was harder and IMO a bit hard to protect.

Added: 2008-04-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: norskagent on 2008-04-01 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars wrong area

this route should be located in the "central area" section, it is not located on the circus wall. It most likely has been done before - avoiding the awkwardness of headjam seems like a natural.

Added: 2008-04-01

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: m_daughtridge on 2007-08-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Surely someone else has done this route . . . .

Hadn't seen this route documented anywhere. Seems to be a fun and worthy route. I prefered it to HeadJam because of the more direct line and the acceptance of smaller gear.
Good stances for gear placement for new 5.7 leaders.
Led by Mark D., followed by Collin C. and Katie V.

Added: 2008-03-27