| Safety Rating
ok route, weird rappel
If you combine my previous ascent of Dolphin Head and this I'll have been up both lines. I climbed the starter crack of this when I first went up DH, but reversed it for this. Comparable, but the SE starter crack is tad more difficult. Went high on the traverse left to the chimney b/c it was quite licheny, but it'd probably not be too bad to stay low.
Pretty straightforward until the last chimney move which was just a tad awkward. I found a textbook C4 #5 placement that protected this move (I had no idea what lay ahead and saw a chimney from the ground so I brought the big gun). Broke it up into two pitches by setting a belay below the dolphin head because I wasn't sure if the rope drag would kill me when I hit the chimney. Probably would have been ok but the crux move would have been a bit more exciting. 2nd pitch was pretty short - 40'? and ended at a rap station at the top of the chimney. Single rope 70m got me to the ground but a 60 would probably have been fine.
Station was a sort of weird slung tree + chockstone that looked more like it was just wedged in the ground, it wasn't contained by obvious rocks like the one at the top of the gully opposite. Tree and chockstone look a little funky but together are probably passable.
Possible to continue scrambling up from where the rap station is for a second pitch but didn't look too worthwhile.