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Southern Exposure - 5.6

Average Rating = 2.50/5 Average Rating : 2.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 2
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Rock (Trad)
Gear to 4 inches.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


This route starts in the right-facing corner just left of Dolphin Head. Follow this corner -- watch for a few loose holds -- to the ledge and then trend left beyond the dolphin head feature and then continue up to belay. From the ledge, a nice, optional finish heads up and slightly right to tackle the rightmost, hanging dihedral under the roof (well left of the dolphin head). Traverse out the short, left-facing wall under the roof and then climb up the short headwall above. Nice exposure and good gear. Above the roof a green Alien takes the spice out of life quite nicely.

Descent Options:

Walk off, scrounge up a rappel -- a few hard-to-find options are already established.

Submitted by: forkliftdaddy on 2007-10-05
Views: 1306
Route ID: 89021

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ej on 2010-05-08 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Fun Traverse

A fun traverse from the Dolphin Head feature over and up through the chimney.

Added: 2010-05-11

  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mjwestla on 2010-04-04 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars ok route, weird rappel

If you combine my previous ascent of Dolphin Head and this I'll have been up both lines. I climbed the starter crack of this when I first went up DH, but reversed it for this. Comparable, but the SE starter crack is tad more difficult. Went high on the traverse left to the chimney b/c it was quite licheny, but it'd probably not be too bad to stay low.

Pretty straightforward until the last chimney move which was just a tad awkward. I found a textbook C4 #5 placement that protected this move (I had no idea what lay ahead and saw a chimney from the ground so I brought the big gun). Broke it up into two pitches by setting a belay below the dolphin head because I wasn't sure if the rope drag would kill me when I hit the chimney. Probably would have been ok but the crux move would have been a bit more exciting. 2nd pitch was pretty short - 40'? and ended at a rap station at the top of the chimney. Single rope 70m got me to the ground but a 60 would probably have been fine.

Station was a sort of weird slung tree + chockstone that looked more like it was just wedged in the ground, it wasn't contained by obvious rocks like the one at the top of the gully opposite. Tree and chockstone look a little funky but together are probably passable.

Possible to continue scrambling up from where the rap station is for a second pitch but didn't look too worthwhile.

Added: 2010-04-04