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Too Much Fun - 5.9

Average Rating = 3.62/5 Average Rating : 3.62 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 23
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (14)
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Rock (Trad)
G
Traditional w/a bolt in crux. Small stopper protects move to bolt.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.17/5
  Scenery 3.67/5
  Fun Factor 4.17/5

Description:

Start right of Headjam. Climb corner shared w/Blue Chock then up and right to the bolt. Finesse the crux and head up and left (exiting in a corner just right of Blue chock finish) for full value or out right onto Washboard for the easy finish. A run out, direct start begins to the right, avoids rope drag, and heads directly to the bolt.

Submitted by: forkliftdaddy on 2007-06-23
Views: 1291
Route ID: 66440

14 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 14 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: gogalac on 2013-08-02 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars too much fun

it's okay. blue chock is much better. you either have to climb the 5.6 flake without pro or break it up into two pitches.

Added: 2013-08-30

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: MonkeySpank on 2013-06-09 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Not a clean climb on my first try

Lost it on the crimpy crux moves and swung out right and could not get back to the crux. Need to come back and try again.

Added: 2013-06-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating R
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mjwestla on 2013-04-07 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Hmmm

Did the flake start out left, traversed out right level with the bottom of the shallow corner, did crux and set a belay shortly after due to rope drag hell. Easy finish up and right. Two ropes would be the way to go for sure. We had to break it into 3 pitches to reach the rap station which was kind of a pain.

Easy well protected climbing until you wrap around onto the exposed face with the shallow corner and bolt. I had a 00 master cam at the base of the corner and a downward pull only RP that popped when I pulled rope at the belay or when I pulled up slack to clip the bolt, not sure which. Also kind of sucks for the 2nd since they will likely face a pendulum after unclipping the bolt unless you happen to have a very tiny cam for a thin horizontal above (something smaller than a 000/grey master cam - maybe a tiny C3?).

Getting to the bolt requires some very thin moves, that aren't extremely difficult but are not well protected. A fall before getting the bolt would be nasty and probably bounce you off the apron below and then result in a long tumble down if you didn't stop at the ledge (10' or so below). The moves up and traversing right after the bolt felt about similar difficulty to the moves reaching it so the bolt sort of interrupts a cruxy section rather than protects it exactly. Still, I was grateful it was there, I just wish there was one more very good piece to protect getting to it. Maybe I'll have better luck with another shape/size nut next time I try it. I still need to try to arching left corner finish - it looked intimidating but cool.

Added: 2013-04-07

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Solo Solo ascent by: forkliftdaddy on 2010-10-19 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Amazing day, part 1

Finished straight up. Crux was enough for me w/o a rope.

Added: 2010-10-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: tks on 2009-08-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars very nice route

pretty good for 5.9. the pro is fine for the grade, bring a micro and you can protect the (one) committing move to the bolt.

Added: 2009-08-17

... Read all 14 ascent notes