Start in the Kennel Fodder (and Blue Balls rappel) gully. Climb the less-than-vertical face opposite Kennel Fodder, generally heading up and right. Climb just to the right of two low pockets -- a so-so Tri-cam in the left -- and mantel onto a ledge. Place an 2.5" Friend at the ledge and another Tri-cam slightly higher. Climb to an overlap, get an okay TCU/Alien placement in the best of the questionable rock. Then climb up and right (crux) to a couple shelves -- Whew! -- for a good passive brown Tri-cam. Other options exist. Follow cracks and flakes to a good horizontal at the level of the tree and chockstone rap. Build a belay with 2" - 4" pieces.
Traverse over to the tree and chockstone rap. Or top out and walk off.
Submitted by: forkliftdaddy on 2008-09-27
Route ID: 94414
Noticed at this face several times when rapping off anchor above Blue Balls. Rope soloed this line. Cool climbing, but down low it climbs like a face route, i.e. if you see a placement, by all means, put some gear in it! Overlap below the crux is reminiscent of the Shithook flake -- flexy, funky, friable in places -- and the next gear is a ways above. So be careful where you place your gear. Could easily be 6+/7-.