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Unknown (Walk Don't Run) - 5.5

Average Rating = 2.00/5 Average Rating : 2.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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unknown
Rock (Trad)
G
1
Standard Rack.
100
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)

Description:

Location: 50 feet left of Turdslinger. A towering roof high up to the left of this route probably has some harder lines. Made up this name myself. **** If you know anything about the history of this route (actual name, FA info) please feel free to edit! **** Starts in a left angling shallow crack to a landing with a small tree. Work up and through a bulge and exit up and right through a large roof and finish to the left on an exposed vertical face and top out at the tree (5.5). Variation: start up the initial crack and continue straight up through the first roof. After the area with the small tree, head up and right and into the overhanging corner to reach the large roof (5.7). The variation results in a straight line up to the anchor. This is probably the better line but might be a less well protected due to more committing moves on slightly poor rock.

Descent Options:

Rap down from the tree. At the time of this entry there was some webbing and a sling+biner around the tree. Probably also possible to walk off, although I didn't test this.

Submitted by: mjwestla on 2010-03-28
Last Modified: 2010-04-01
Views: 605
Route ID: 103988

Topo Images

1 Ascent Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mjwestla on 2010-03-21 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars more central wall crumbly fun

Me and my buddy Tom were out climbing one fine afternoon and were surprised this section didn't appear to have a route listed in either of the standard area guides, esp given that it's neighbor - the rather wretched looking, significantly shorter and always wet "Turdslinger" did.

Several lines are possible but I took the easiest, which probably clocks in at 5.5, and wanders much. I managed to create some massive rope drag on my first run up it but we put together a straight shot on TR later that would probably go at 5.7 through some slight overhangs, provided you trusted the rock enough to pull through on lead (my partner busted off a 5 lb chunk at one point on a TR variation). Definitely some sketchy rock but it'll probably clean up well over time. We will probably come back and try a harder variation that angles up to finish on the harder corner up left.

I topped out at a tree and found some pretty new rap gear, so we were not the first to bag this line in recent history. Feel free to add info if you know more about this line!


Added: 2010-03-28