| Safety Rating
more central wall crumbly fun
Me and my buddy Tom were out climbing one fine afternoon and were surprised this section didn't appear to have a route listed in either of the standard area guides, esp given that it's neighbor - the rather wretched looking, significantly shorter and always wet "Turdslinger" did.
Several lines are possible but I took the easiest, which probably clocks in at 5.5, and wanders much. I managed to create some massive rope drag on my first run up it but we put together a straight shot on TR later that would probably go at 5.7 through some slight overhangs, provided you trusted the rock enough to pull through on lead (my partner busted off a 5 lb chunk at one point on a TR variation). Definitely some sketchy rock but it'll probably clean up well over time. We will probably come back and try a harder variation that angles up to finish on the harder corner up left.
I topped out at a tree and found some pretty new rap gear, so we were not the first to bag this line in recent history. Feel free to add info if you know more about this line!