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Juggernaut - 5.10b

Average Rating = 3.50/5 Average Rating : 3.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Rock (Trad)
G
1
standard rack - emphasis on mid-size (.75ish)
60
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Before you reach Nutsweat there is an alcove about 50 feet up above the trail. Head up here into the left corner and look for an overhanging crack system starting about 20 feet off the ground. A bouldery start takes you up to two cracks (aim for the left one) and into a bit of a pod. If you get desperate you can stem off the wall out left eventually but that feels a bit like cheating. After pulling through the hand crack section the angle backs off a bit but it is still kinda pumpy. Aim for a V shaped crack in the white rock and decide which way to go from here - easiest route seems to be to dodge out right at a horizontal into a 5.5 ending but you could probably push straight up. Route protects pretty well, if with some pumpy placements but has been the scene of at least one sorta ugly fall due to some less than great rock, particularly near the top so take care.

Descent Options:

Route ends at the top of a tree ledge - move right about 40 feet and find a sizable tree with a rap station. (Nice 5.8 in the vicinity of this rap line)

Submitted by: mjwestla on 2012-11-18
Views: 211
Route ID: 112987

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: csproul on 2013-04-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars short, fun

route. face climbing between a couple of short cracks. No hard stopper moves, but more like endurance crimping between rests/gear. Most dirt/lichen up at the top with some sloper moves. Need to traverse up and right about 25 ft to get to tree with webbing anchors.

Added: 2013-04-14

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: mjwestla on 2012-11-11 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Short but entertaining.

Looking forward to a rematch where I can hopefully build some momentum for the clean send. Was a bit wary due to the rep for not great rock so looked to this as an exploratory mission rather than a true onsight effort. As a result I kept taking too long double checking my placements due to the funky irregular cracks. Maybe I was just pumped out from the steep start but there didn't seem to be an abundance of fantastic rest stances, although a stem to the wall out left worked pretty well at one point. I'm not really sure what I'd call the crux on this one.

Kinda reminded me of a harder version of Popeye Effect - short and pumpy with some awkward holds and not as many rest stance as you might want.

Not sure if it's necessary but I build a hanging belay at the top of the difficult section because of a really good #1/.75 C4 sized crack and I needed to have a straight shot to my followers for an extra secure minimum friction belay so they could work the start (which is fairly full on almost immediately).

Added: 2013-01-27