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Nutsweat - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.20/5 Average Rating : 4.20 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (12)
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Rock (Trad)
G
2
Traditional
100
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.40/5
  Rock Quality 3.80/5
  Scenery 4.20/5
  Fun Factor 4.40/5

Description:

Great 2 pitch route near Shadow Dance. Funky crux. Can be done in one pitch w/ two ropes to rap. (Can actually rap with one 60 meter rope if you're careful: have the first person down single rope rap. The second can then rap with the rope doubled and have the person on the ground pull them up to higher ground)

Submitted by: csproul on 2008-09-27
Views: 1235
Route ID: 50940

12 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: mjwestla on 2011-10-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars One year later to the day...

...came back for the lead. Had followed it once more in the meantime. Kinda crucial to have something like a green Alien/red or yellow C3 size for the first crux. Solid placement but that's all you've got more or less for that move.

Didn't notice the slight runout over loose rock mid-route the first time quite so much as I did when on lead. Thankfully it's over easy stuff and you get some good pieces before the upper crux begins. Can get a couple pieces in the better rock in the cracks on the face right of the arete, slightly off-route.

Awesome to have #2 and #3 C4s to slam home just after the upper crux and along the traverse. A killer nut placement at the end of the traverse seals the deal and puts you good stead for the jug haul mega-roof action.

This time round I found the right holds and got my sequences right so I think the grade is probably pretty reasonable provided you don't dally and get pumped out. Kinda scary in some spots but it's all there.

Fantastic route and one of the best at Moore's from those I've done, but that steel cable around the chickenhead makes me cringe and laugh at the same time. Thankfully it's only PART of the rap anchor. (the chickenhead head it looks like something I'd test carefully before committing body weight on lead...) I GUESS it's solid... welcome to Moore's.

Added: 2011-10-09

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
Onsight Onsight ascent by: bdc on 2011-10-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars .

.

Added: 2011-10-09

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: up_for_a_good_time on 2009-09-27 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Sweaty Nuts For Sure!

I felt like I was a beaching whale...well, before the first...second...third whippers. Hah. No style points for the overhang though. Must do again.

Added: 2011-02-23

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: killingmorethancancer on 2010-11-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars A must do

I think this is about as good as 5.9 gets. Bring big stuff for up top.

Added: 2010-11-09

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: mjwestla on 2010-10-09 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Airy, a little scary, and just a little bit hairy.

Upper section gets your attention for sure :) Thin feet and an airy traverse into a crazy spacey jugged out roof!

First crux was sort of surprising, down low. Parts of this route could be scarier for the 2nd than the leader, in particular the potential pendulum from this first crux.

Might like to follow it again before I try the lead...

Single 70m gets you down - not sure if a 60 would though.

Added: 2010-10-09

... Read all 12 ascent notes