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Shadow Dance - 5.11d

Average Rating = 4.56/5 Average Rating : 4.56 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (10)
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Rock
Traditional (with brass if you've got it).
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.20/5
  Scenery 3.33/5
  Fun Factor 4.40/5

Description:

Left of nutsweat. Can lead first half (10c) to a nice station then lower.

Submitted by: forkliftdaddy on 2005-10-19
Views: 1062
Route ID: 60660

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10 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: mjwestla on 2014-06-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars redpoint of P1

It's all there. Lieback, stem, and crimp through exciting engaging moves. I used a ton of my smallest gear on this one but a piece (red ballnut) I sussed out on a follow-up run on TR seemed like a nice alternative to the dubious RPs I used at the start of the slabby bit. Still not sure of the best nuts to use there. The powerful lieback start is fun and well protected although the thin face (and slight overhang at one point) is where the true action is. Fantastic! I think one of the hardest parts is getting yourself moving onto the face from the ledge midway up... could be my favorite route at Moore's even though it's a bit scary.

Added: 2014-06-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: gogalac on 2011-10-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars shadowdance

real nice! great moves. pitch 1 only.

Added: 2011-10-16

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Scenery
Onsight Onsight ascent by: bdc on 2011-10-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Brilliant legs

oh yeah

Added: 2011-10-09

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: rastafarmer on 2011-09-03 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars fun

sweet route, crux had me shaking, must do for a 10 climber at Moores

Added: 2011-09-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: mjwestla on 2011-07-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars TR

Followed P1, got a clean ascent following Chris's Redpoint (well done!) Classic route. One crux getting past the first bulge and after a decent rest and some easy stuff to thin and stemmy. Hardest move for me was the second to last move from the topout - ie finagling a move to the jug at the top of the corner. Protects well, albeit with small gear. Nothing larger than a .75 BD (possible 2 placement) and small to mid-size stoppers.

Added: 2011-07-18

... Read all 10 ascent notes