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Unknown Corner - 5.6

Average Rating = 2.00/5 Average Rating : 2.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad)
G
1
standard rack
100
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)

Description:

Follow a small branch trail uphill just before (50 feet?) you reach the area with Nutsweat. A short distance up the hill you will find an alcove with a sizable low angle cliff face on the left and a more vertical wall in front with a chimney cleft in the corner between. On the low angle left face look for an large arching corner - this is your route. Follow the corner up and slightly right. A number of lines are possible but I chose to escape the corner up and left once I got about 10-15 feet above a large ledge on the right. Continue up and bear slightly right toward the trees at the top of the chimney corner to maybe find a rap station, although you may want to back it up. Always check your anchor before trusting your life to it. Lots of dubious and loose rock on this route so climb and protect carefully.

Descent Options:

Locate the rap station (if it's still there: two nuts in the same crack with biners and a single tied piece of webbing and single quicklink), build your own, or be prepared to bushwhack. Be careful building a station as the rock quality isn't great.

Submitted by: mjwestla on 2011-07-19
Last Modified: 2011-07-20
Views: 445
Route ID: 109394

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1 Ascent Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mjwestla on 2011-07-17 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars looks a bit better than it is.

The corner looks cool but would be a bit better if the rock was a bit less crumbly. Took my time finding my way through the best of the chossy bits. The traverse to the anchors was a little run out the way I went but I'm sure there's gear if you pay a bit more attention to your path. Not an ideal route for the 5.6 leader as there is more route finding involved and you will have to be careful of bad rock and evaluating your descent options a bit more than some of the other "easy" routes at Moore's. Still, easiest grade route at the North End.

Several variations possible including a more bold looking climb up the arete if you leave the corner early.

Added: 2011-07-19