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Routes : North America : United States : North Carolina : Central : Morgan Bluff aka University Lake Boulders

Morgan Bluff aka University Lake Boulders

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Climbing Sections:

About Morgan Bluff aka University Lake Boulders:

A small bouldering area with several outcrops along Morgan creek near University Lake. Morgan Bluff is in Carrboro, the hipster foil to Chapel Hill's upscale college town atmosphere. These boulders are interspersed along the trail that passes from the University Lake dam to the Berryhill subdivision. This area is forested with some strong fine-grained monzonite granite. Virtually unknown but used by a select few for daily workouts. The Jolly Green boulder (10') with VB to V3+ projects is the easiest to get to by normal paths from Tar Hill Drive or BPW Club road. Saxa Pawpaw is an 8m crag but has serious bee issues and fragile wildlife at the top. Playground Pool just east of Saxa Pawpaw has a few projects from V0-V3. There are additional traverses directly above the water if you take the trail west towards University Lake including the V6, Lolth would approve, just below the dam by the old train trestle.
Nearest town or city: Carrboro/Chapel Hill
Directions: How to find Carrboro's little secret: The easiest way to get there is from BPW Club Road off of Smith Level Road going south from downtown Carrboro on South Greensboro Street. BPW Club road is just after Frank Porter Graham elementary school on the right as you head up the hill on Smith Level road towards Carrboro high school. Parking can be found at the Highland Hills apartment office near the pool or in the apartments on Tar Hill drive (They don't tow as of 7/18/2011). Alternatively, take the free J Bus from UNC campus; make sure to get the J bus going towards Rock Haven Road instead of the Jones Ferry Road bus. Get off at the Highland Hills bus stop at either the office or Tar Hill drive. Approach is <0.5 km down the trail below the office/pool. If coming from Tar Hill drive, walk down the hill and take the trail just to right of the dumpsters. Heading left on the trails will take you to Univeristy Lake or straight and to the right for the other projects. From Highland Hills office: Follow the trail below the office and pool until it reaches Morgan creek. There will be a pipe across the stream as a landmark but you do not cross the creek. Follow the trail left (west) for a small traverse right at the creek ~25m away or continue to University Lake and the Spiderqueen. Go right (east) into the woods to find Jolly Green, Saxa Pawpaw, and the Playground Pool. * Reference Street Address for Directions: 180 BPW Club Rd., Carrboro NC 27510
Latitude, Longitude: 35.89670, -79.08520
Access Issues: Fragile Plant life above 8m Saxa Pawpaw crag. Do not disturb rhododendrons or remove plants.
Camping: No
When to Climb: Autumn Spring Summer Winter
Quantity of Climbs: Day