Starts just right of Mild Mannered Secretary in the central section of the Amphitheater. Climb past four bolts, pull a small roof to a no-hands stance, then pull the huge roof with two bolts to the top. If you didn't try the huge roof, it would still be a grand climb.
Submitted by: euphoriagtrst on 2007-12-15
Route ID: 58678
A friend took a stab at the lead but bailed at the crux bolt. This was then converted to a top-rope for the rest of the group which I tried. Based on my attempt, there appear to be two slightly challenging sections and then the evil big roof maneuvers. Note that there is a set of anchors before the roof so you don't have to complete the climb if you aren't feeling up to the big moves. Probably 5.9 or so to go to those anchors, although I think if you wander around a bit scouting off route for good holds it can be done at more like 5.8.
The moves between the first and second bolt can be pretty challenging if you go straight up. I watched at least one person take a leader fall at that point later in the day (she was ok and finished to the first anchors). I thought it was a bit runout up to bolt 3 but the climbing isn't bad. No worse than cow patty bingo (to the right). The next minor crux is moving through the small roof, but with patience holds become apparent. From there it's pretty much just a scramble up to the last bolt before the roof. There are a couple spots for some intermediate gear if you'd like as it's a pretty good distance between these bolts. After that bolt... rest up and prepare for a hardcore series of moves out to the last bolt, using a tiny fingercrack and a couple jugs but not much in the way of feet that I could find. After that last bolt it's up a couple shelfy crimps to the top out but even on the top rope I was pretty darn tired. If you make it to the end and take a fall before the last bolt on TR it's a pretty exciting swing out into space with a lot of exposure! On lead you'd probably swing back and smack the wall (which in conjunction with the runout between bolts 2 and 3 are why I'm giving this a PG13).
All in all, pretty fun with plenty of rest stances between the business sections.