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Arms Control Half - 5.10b

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 49
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Rock (Sport)
G
Two bolted hangers on the small overhang midway on the main wall, can traverse from anchors for 'Secretary'. Trying to top-rope from the upper rings is done, but not recommended.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.67/5
  Rock Quality 3.33/5
  Scenery 2.67/5
  Fun Factor 3.00/5

Description:

Three bolts for another short Sport route with a hard direct line and an easy one to the right. The easy line does not finish easily; rigging and cleaning the two bolts as anchors will be difficult. Access from the left is recommended.

Submitted by: Rmsyll2 on 2011-08-12
Views: 524
Route ID: 109619

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3 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: GBMW128 on 2011-11-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Eh

It was alright should have pulled the roof!

Added: 2011-11-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: DavidEast on 2011-08-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars on sight

Great route. three bolts to double bolts. First bolt is clippable from a safe stance. very sequential start, moving right of first bolt and up. large sloper above the bolt can be matched with both hands to walk your feet up. Getting over that "hump" to move on to the second bolt is a touch awkward. But once above the sloper the climbing get much easier to the second bolt. Difficulty increases a bit up to the third bolt again, but not as intense as passing the first bolt. Reaching the double bolts is awkward as they're on the face side of a small roof. There's a decent hold off to the left end of the roof, then lean right and walk your feet up keeping your hips tucked into the roof and reaching the bolts becomes much easier. There aren't chains or rap rings on the hangers but sometimes a biner or two are left behind. I wasn't sure of the grade at the bottom. I thought it was either a hard 5.9... maaaybe a 5.10. Either way, it's a blast.

Added: 2011-08-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: Rmsyll2 on 2011-08-11 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Well, almost.

Terrifying start for a terrifying rappel: will never do that again! Start and traverse is not imo easier than for 'Secretary'. The small dihedral area is good almost to the triangle overhang. I did not cross under to the 'Secretary' line to top, and did not get far on the overhangs to the right either.

Added: 2011-08-12