Three bolts for another short Sport route with a hard direct line and an easy one to the right. The easy line does not finish easily; rigging and cleaning the two bolts as anchors will be difficult. Access from the left is recommended.
Submitted by: Rmsyll2 on 2011-08-12
Route ID: 109619
Great route. three bolts to double bolts. First bolt is clippable from a safe stance. very sequential start, moving right of first bolt and up. large sloper above the bolt can be matched with both hands to walk your feet up. Getting over that "hump" to move on to the second bolt is a touch awkward. But once above the sloper the climbing get much easier to the second bolt. Difficulty increases a bit up to the third bolt again, but not as intense as passing the first bolt. Reaching the double bolts is awkward as they're on the face side of a small roof. There's a decent hold off to the left end of the roof, then lean right and walk your feet up keeping your hips tucked into the roof and reaching the bolts becomes much easier. There aren't chains or rap rings on the hangers but sometimes a biner or two are left behind. I wasn't sure of the grade at the bottom. I thought it was either a hard 5.9... maaaybe a 5.10. Either way, it's a blast.
Terrifying start for a terrifying rappel: will never do that again! Start and traverse is not imo easier than for 'Secretary'. The small dihedral area is good almost to the triangle overhang. I did not cross under to the 'Secretary' line to top, and did not get far on the overhangs to the right either.