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When Shrimp Learn to Whistle - 5.11a

Average Rating = 3.73/5 Average Rating : 3.73 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 53
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (11)
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Rock (Sport)
G
4 bolts to mid-route shuts at ledge, where second can set a higher belay; five more bolts to new rings above the roof. Do re-clip for second: dangerous swing from top rings.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c V0 WI1 A0 M1
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 3.83/5
  Scenery 3.50/5
  Fun Factor 3.83/5

Description:

Starts left of Single Handed Sailor on the right side of the Amphitheater. Follow the difficult face along the sharp arete. Head left toward next arete for two bolts across overhangs to big roof and finish in V notch.

Descent Options:

Three Bears Gully

Submitted by: cha on 2007-12-25
Last Modified: 2011-02-16
Views: 1496
Route ID: 84352

11 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 11 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: LunaClimbs on 2011-11-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars ugh that crux

Had trouble figuring out what to do at the crux. Once I figured out the right beta for me, pulled the crux without a problem.

Added: 2011-11-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: wmontgo on 2010-10-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars tough roof

got to the first anchors and a little past but couldn't get past the roofs.. easy up to the roofs but at the top it has some tough moves. definitely want to try it again

Added: 2010-10-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: sycamore on 2009-10-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars 11b in the book,

Probably 11c when compared to the rest of the country. Great climb that most only do the first half of.

Added: 2009-10-05

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: llkenned on 2009-03-07 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Tough crux

Arete is fun. The crux--pulling a small roof with a tiny left undercling and tiny right crimp--threw me every time.

Added: 2009-03-16

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: mjwestla on 2009-01-03 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars a couple hard moves

I've been on this a couple times and haven't done it cleanly yet, although I've only been to the first set of anchors. The move up the arete via the crimpers is pretty darn hard. Actually, there are two hard moves then you are through the hard bits, at least for this part of the climb. Looking forward to working through it and then trying the roof section. Relatively easy for the rest of the climb, but the crux is harder than others of this grade at Pilot I think.

Added: 2009-01-04

... Read all 11 ascent notes