Hunger Strike - 5.8

One of the Erics and a younger version were halfway through a list of fifteen Trad climbs they hoped to each lead that day. Where he was on the "short, blocky arete" that Kelley numbered for two climbs was a surprise, and made a lot of sense.

Kelley's map shows both 65 and 66 on the same right face, but Eric was climbing the left face directly over the Trail. It is deeply layered, making many good placements. I could not see the anchor. They then moved around to the right face, and crossed it from lower left to top right following the cracks for gear. They used the big pine for anchor for top belay, with some problem with the rope snagging inside the large top crack (but not when Eric did it).

Kelley does say "toprope" so you don't have to follow cracks. And I had separated two lines on the right face, toward the nose offering some greater difficulty for a 5.7; but it never made much sense to call it two climbs. For Trad, Eric is obviously (and of course) correct, meaning where the numbers are shown on Kelley's map is wrong. And what others have been doing was probably "Bet Ya Can't", sorry.

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There is too much climbing without a rope to get where you can climb with a rope, to climb this top-rope. And the rock is too rotten in too many places to safely Trad it imo. Too bad, because it is quite interesting for a short climb. Getting onto the middle ledge is rather difficult, and there are many sharp flakes for necessary holds. Out on the left arete is more interesting, and harder in places. But I cannot recommend this, for climbing the chimney (facing out is much better for me), or the anchor situation requiring very long runners.

Easy climb. Good stances. Great for teaching trad placement.

wanted to try something nice and easy to see how climbing in my approach shoes worked out :) not a bad little route

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