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Hunger Strike - 5.8

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 65
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (9)
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Rock (Trad) (Toprope)
G
1
New bolted rim anchors facing the Trail. Will take gear.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 2.50/5
  Scenery 2.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.00/5

Description:

This is the short wide buttress that the Trail goes around, to the left downhill of Big Arete, so it is right over the Trail. A series of ledges and overhangs with few positive grips along the way, much harder than it looks.

Descent Options:

Chimney gives access and descent from top.

Submitted by: freeclimb69 on 2007-12-28
Last Modified: 2012-03-12
Views: 800
Route ID: 50665

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9 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Rmsyll on 2008-04-26 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Eric's route

One of the Erics and a younger version were halfway through a list of fifteen Trad climbs they hoped to each lead that day. Where he was on the "short, blocky arete" that Kelley numbered for two climbs was a surprise, and made a lot of sense.

Kelley's map shows both 65 and 66 on the same right face, but Eric was climbing the left face directly over the Trail. It is deeply layered, making many good placements. I could not see the anchor. They then moved around to the right face, and crossed it from lower left to top right following the cracks for gear. They used the big pine for anchor for top belay, with some problem with the rope snagging inside the large top crack (but not when Eric did it).

Kelley does say "toprope" so you don't have to follow cracks. And I had separated two lines on the right face, toward the nose offering some greater difficulty for a 5.7; but it never made much sense to call it two climbs. For Trad, Eric is obviously (and of course) correct, meaning where the numbers are shown on Kelley's map is wrong. And what others have been doing was probably "Bet Ya Can't", sorry.

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Added: 2008-04-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: Rmsyll on 2008-04-24 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars interesting, but....

There is too much climbing without a rope to get where you can climb with a rope, to climb this top-rope. And the rock is too rotten in too many places to safely Trad it imo. Too bad, because it is quite interesting for a short climb. Getting onto the middle ledge is rather difficult, and there are many sharp flakes for necessary holds. Out on the left arete is more interesting, and harder in places. But I cannot recommend this, for climbing the chimney (facing out is much better for me), or the anchor situation requiring very long runners.

Added: 2008-04-24

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: AngusBeefheart on 2007-01-28 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Easy climb. Good stances. Great for teaching trad placement.

Added: 2007-01-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: erica on 2007-01-27 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars hunger strike

wanted to try something nice and easy to see how climbing in my approach shoes worked out :) not a bad little route

Added: 2007-01-27

Ratings
  Difficulty
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: deltav on 2005-10-03 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2005-10-03

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