Starts left of Oscar Meyer. Find a bench-like set-back along the bottom of the wall at a bush. Look up and find a long narrow blackened overhang. Follow flake cracks to there, and up to left edge of big roof.
Submitted by: Rmsyll on 2007-12-26
Route ID: 90395
The anchor location is a little hard to get to, and once you're there, it's pretty sketchy. Lot's of loose dirt sloping towards the cliff, so be careful and make sure you're tied in to something. For a top-rope anchor, we used the smallish pine and the big block, but you can probably use the pair of pines as well. We slung our anchors so that the masterpoint hung about 10 feet below the edge in order to avoid dragging our climbing rope on the rock. Make sure you have sufficient slings/cordelettes if you're looking to do the same.
Just like the route description says, start on the bench-like setback just to the right of a bush (which can get in the belayer's way, by the way). Follow the crack and then go straight up.
Note: there are some unofficial routes to the left of Duracell, maybe 5.7 or so. We built an anchor off of the solid lone pine to the left of the pair of pines. Alternatively, you can use the pair of pines.
There were weekend groups in the usual popular places, so Riley lead to the left of here to rig this one for them. The anchors were gear beneath the left end of the huge roof, so the easiest lines were to the left of the rope and it took some work to get up to the finish face. What looks like an easier crack, isn't. It was a good work-out, and Erin agreed with 5.8 for the line she used. Riley found some harder parts to the right.
After watching Terry's bunch on it, I had to try it too. My rope was too far right, using a block under the roof and a small Pine, instead of the pair of sturdy Pines. Kelley's 5.8 seems to me to be up there, if you stay on the thin faces. But following various cracks allows a juggy route with no real difficulty: making this a good one to do differently each time, trying to make it harder. Getting down to the anchors is much harder than we are used to at Pilot, however, and then you have to do it back up. And the most lichens on the climb, too.