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Duracell - 5.8

Average Rating = 2.89/5 Average Rating : 2.89 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 15
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (9)
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Rock (Toprope)
PG13
Toprope; build a gear anchor.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.86/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 2.57/5
  Fun Factor 2.86/5

Description:

Starts left of Oscar Meyer. Find a bench-like set-back along the bottom of the wall at a bush. Look up and find a long narrow blackened overhang. Follow flake cracks to there, and up to left edge of big roof.

Submitted by: Rmsyll on 2007-12-26
Views: 658
Route ID: 90395

9 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: douglaskinsman on 2013-05-01 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Eh, not that memorable

Makes for a warmup

Added: 2013-05-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: trungmvo on 2012-01-28 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Duracell

The anchor location is a little hard to get to, and once you're there, it's pretty sketchy. Lot's of loose dirt sloping towards the cliff, so be careful and make sure you're tied in to something. For a top-rope anchor, we used the smallish pine and the big block, but you can probably use the pair of pines as well. We slung our anchors so that the masterpoint hung about 10 feet below the edge in order to avoid dragging our climbing rope on the rock. Make sure you have sufficient slings/cordelettes if you're looking to do the same.

Just like the route description says, start on the bench-like setback just to the right of a bush (which can get in the belayer's way, by the way). Follow the crack and then go straight up.

Note: there are some unofficial routes to the left of Duracell, maybe 5.7 or so. We built an anchor off of the solid lone pine to the left of the pair of pines. Alternatively, you can use the pair of pines.

Added: 2012-01-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Climber14 on 2010-10-29 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Good Warm-Up

Just a little confusing about were to start.

Added: 2010-10-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Rmsyll on 2008-05-17 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Riley and Erin

There were weekend groups in the usual popular places, so Riley lead to the left of here to rig this one for them. The anchors were gear beneath the left end of the huge roof, so the easiest lines were to the left of the rope and it took some work to get up to the finish face. What looks like an easier crack, isn't. It was a good work-out, and Erin agreed with 5.8 for the line she used. Riley found some harder parts to the right.

Added: 2008-05-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: Rmsyll on 2008-03-21 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars my turn

After watching Terry's bunch on it, I had to try it too. My rope was too far right, using a block under the roof and a small Pine, instead of the pair of sturdy Pines. Kelley's 5.8 seems to me to be up there, if you stay on the thin faces. But following various cracks allows a juggy route with no real difficulty: making this a good one to do differently each time, trying to make it harder. Getting down to the anchors is much harder than we are used to at Pilot, however, and then you have to do it back up. And the most lichens on the climb, too.

Added: 2008-03-21

... Read all 9 ascent notes