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Devil in the White House - 5.10d popular

Average Rating = 4.08/5 Average Rating : 4.08 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 61
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (41)
Rock (Trad) (Sport)
G
1
Four bolts, bolted anchors; supplement with gear if needed at face and upper horizontal crack. Watch for rope drag and pendulum falls if toproping.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.40/5
  Rock Quality 3.44/5
  Scenery 3.20/5
  Fun Factor 4.19/5

Description:

Starts just left of Steaming Piles on the smooth yellowish wall. Start is slightly blocky, fading to few but well-chalked holds. Go left of bolt line to horizontal crack (crux), traverse right to have best stance for clipping the bolt at the overhang, then up and right (5.10d) past roof to ledge and ring anchors.

Submitted by: andy_reagan on 2007-12-15
Last Modified: 2007-12-28
Views: 825
Route ID: 722

Most Recent Photos

41 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 41 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: pjmjr123 on 2009-08-01 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Devil in the White House

Amazing.

Added: 2009-08-01

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: kyleht287 on 2009-07-27 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Got the Redpoint!

Finally got this clean. One of my top 5 at Pilot for sure!

Added: 2009-07-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: kyleht287 on 2009-07-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fantastic!

This route rocks! On this ascent, however, I was pumped from climbing all day. I hang-dogged it very sketchily! You can place a Green BD Cam (.75) in the horizontal crack just below the first bolt, I wouldn't want to clip it unprotected, not the best stance ever. This is a classic steep sport at Pilot!

Added: 2009-07-16

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: wkfegler on 2009-07-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Wow! Great Route

fun route and was my first intro to Pilot Mountain

Added: 2009-07-12

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: kyleht287 on 2009-07-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fun Sport Climb!

Easy for the grade, for sure. Every bolt is easy to clip, it's just kinda runout to the first bolt, supplement with a cam in the horizontal crack if needed. Got it clean on sport!

Added: 2009-07-09

... Read all 41 ascent notes