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I Gotta Wear Shades - 5.9

Average Rating = 3.33/5 Average Rating : 3.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 11
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Rock (Trad)
G
Some thin gear, and up to 2.5in
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

A series of aretes on opposite sides leads up to a cluster of overhangs and an intimidating roof. Climb under the roof and exit to the right. Continue up a knobby face to the top.

Submitted by: joshy8200 on 2007-11-19
Views: 868
Route ID: 73094

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5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: warrenw on 2011-02-12 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars So so.

Looks awesome from below. But then maybe 2 awkward 5.9ish moves punctuate an otherwise simple route. You weave in between roofs so rope drag difficult to manage. Oh and don't forget the classic thrill of trying not to pull choss down on your belayer.

Added: 2011-02-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: longshot76 on 2010-04-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars easy but fun and a great view

The way this climb is set up, it makes for a fun climb. At least I found it fun. The view at the top of the climb was great too. You can see over the trees and off into the distance.

Added: 2010-06-01

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: mjwestla on 2009-11-21 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars ok route

Ok route mixing a few different types of moves. Not sure if the crux is the slightly tricky face mid-way up or the ugly beached whale move to exit right below the roof. Not super hard but awkward; probably more like a 5.8+ but might feel harder for newbies not used to dealing with some unusual moves.

A bit tricky to TR because the swing factor can make it hard to get back on if you come off. I added a little gear below the roof for a directional but as I played with the length of sling I found it either added too much drag under the roof or was not enough to let someone recover if they fell off too low. Maybe a second piece lower?

I now understand the name though; when you are just about to reach the roof and go right onto the big shelf, the sun is suddenly right there in your eyes - at least the time of day we were on it.

Natural anchor (small tree + cams/nuts/etc). Would be useful to have a larger cam for an anchor piece (#4 or #5?) for the big crack at the top.


Added: 2009-11-22

Ratings
  Difficulty
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: boredwolf on 2006-06-15 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

very fun overhangs, then some easy, juggy climbing up to the top.

Added: 2006-06-15

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: joshy8200 on 2006-01-08 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Witnessed by: erin
Added: 2006-01-08