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I Gotta Wear Shades - 5.9

Average Rating = 2.00/5 Average Rating : 2.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 11
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
Rock (Trad)
G
Some thin gear, and up to 2.5in
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)

Description:

A series of aretes on opposite sides leads up to a cluster of overhangs and an intimidating roof. Climb under the roof and exit to the right. Continue up a knobby face to the top.

Submitted by: joshy8200 on 2007-11-19
Views: 184
Route ID: 73094

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: mjwestla on 2009-11-21 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars ok route new

Ok route mixing a few different types of moves. Not sure if the crux is the slightly tricky face mid-way up or the ugly beached whale move to exit right below the roof. Not super hard but awkward; probably more like a 5.8+ but might feel harder for newbies not used to dealing with some unusual moves.

A bit tricky to TR because the swing factor can make it hard to get back on if you come off. I added a little gear below the roof for a directional but as I played with the length of sling I found it either added too much drag under the roof or was not enough to let someone recover if they fell off too low. Maybe a second piece lower?

I now understand the name though; when you are just about to reach the roof and go right onto the big shelf, the sun is suddenly right there in your eyes - at least the time of day we were on it.

Natural anchor (small tree + cams/nuts/etc). Would be useful to have a larger cam for an anchor piece (#4 or #5?) for the big crack at the top.


Added: 2009-11-22

Ratings
  Difficulty
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: boredwolf on 2006-06-15 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

very fun overhangs, then some easy, juggy climbing up to the top.

Added: 2006-06-15

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: joshy8200 on 2006-01-08 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Witnessed by: erin
Added: 2006-01-08