There is a steeply rising ledge in the middle of the face: going up and right from there is this route. There are holds, but it takes hunting and reaching with good balance to get them. Only one rest ledge near the little pine until you get up to the big one. To get up the blank patch, there is a hard move with a long stretch. Going left onto "Buzzard's" is an escape route.
Submitted by: Rmsyll on 2007-11-28
Route ID: 89554
After finding a hold that makes the smooth part possible, this I preferred to the usual line on "Buzzard's Breath". But it has bothered me that there is only one rigging for this narrow wall, making for only one name by my notions. Kelly did have two numbers on his map at this face, and so did Attarian's map. But Jeff Dillon's /Guide/ says to climb "the vegetated dihedral" which I had failed to do before within 5.7 skills. Today, I tried it again, rigging from the large pine tree used for "Too Old" and, with more body jamming than I usually allow to be climbing, did it, with a different finish at the similar juggy top. I like it! And now consider there to be two 5.7 variations for "Buzzard's Breath" separated by a reportedly 5.10 straight up variation, with this route indeed in the crack with its own natural anchor.
Not on first try, and not on first line. Lost a pinch grip and hit the ground on first try. Slipped a foot and was barely hanging on to back down for another try. My first case of leg shake, too bad to continue, and the scariest almost-dyno too. I got into this weird crouch with both knees going left and my right arm right and low, and had to go for whatever was up there with a fast left stretch or fall anyway. Whew! It was a handfull grip, and the rest was such a relief after that sweat, that I remember nothing about it. Doing it again, will wait a while.