Top-rope from bolted anchors at the top, or from rings at the ledge.
This is the off-width double-crack chimney at the base, with another crack above the large ledge. Difficult start to difficult mix of face, crack, and chimney techniques. Climb the chimney to a small overhang inside the chimney, and past it to the left to rings. From the ledge, you can continue up the 5.10 face or the very rough crack to the top; a 60-meter rope is necessary for both.
The ledge can be reached from Ledge Spring Trail to the left, but it is not an easy scramble at one part.
Submitted by: joshy8200 on 2007-12-25
Last Modified: 2010-11-03
Route ID: 46592
Had done the upper crack section from the top bolts: very ugly awkward climb with many jugs and foot places, 5.6 except for circumstances.
Lower section on separate TR: the top of the crack gives a good stance for rigging, but tie-in is not the best. Very mixed styles all the way up, which is not far. One tricky move to get past the little overhang is the crux to finish. The only 5.8 aspect imo is being able to hold by one hand to search for the other grip, with two thin feet placements. Stem and back-step smears usually necessary, minor hand jam useful.