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Vegomatic - 5.8

Average Rating = 3.92/5 Average Rating : 3.92 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 78
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (30)
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Rock (Trad) (Toprope)
G
2
Top-rope from bolted anchors at the top, or from rings at the ledge.
95
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.32/5
  Rock Quality 3.89/5
  Scenery 4.05/5
  Fun Factor 4.05/5

Description:

This is the off-width double-crack chimney at the base, with another crack above the large ledge. Difficult start to difficult mix of face, crack, and chimney techniques. Climb the chimney to a small overhang inside the chimney, and past it to the left to rings. From the ledge, you can continue up the 5.10 face or the very rough crack to the top; a 60-meter rope is necessary for both.

Descent Options:

The ledge can be reached from Ledge Spring Trail to the left, but it is not an easy scramble at one part.

Submitted by: joshy8200 on 2007-12-25
Last Modified: 2010-11-03
Views: 1665
Route ID: 46592

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30 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: wkfegler on 2014-10-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars fun crack/chimney climb

always enjoy this easy fun route

Added: 2014-10-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: wkfegler on 2012-04-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Perfect Day

Second route of the day, and a great route.

Added: 2012-04-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: someonekipp on 2012-04-20 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars .

.

Added: 2012-04-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: up_for_a_good_time on 2011-04-10 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars mhmm

fun route. want to lead it.

Added: 2011-04-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: Rmsyll2 on 2010-11-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Two climbs for me

Had done the upper crack section from the top bolts: very ugly awkward climb with many jugs and foot places, 5.6 except for circumstances.

Lower section on separate TR: the top of the crack gives a good stance for rigging, but tie-in is not the best. Very mixed styles all the way up, which is not far. One tricky move to get past the little overhang is the crux to finish. The only 5.8 aspect imo is being able to hold by one hand to search for the other grip, with two thin feet placements. Stem and back-step smears usually necessary, minor hand jam useful.

Added: 2010-11-02

... Read all 30 ascent notes