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My Husband Is Going to Kill Me - 5.7

Average Rating = 4.33/5 Average Rating : 4.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 57
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Rock (Trad) (Toprope)
G
1
New face anchors, access down on a sloped ledge.
60
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.67/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.67/5

Description:

Also called 'Start the Car', this is the first tall line on the gray wall uphill from the Amphitheater area (where it was listed following Kelley's map). Easier start is to the right, but getting to the small lower ledge is still the crux for most first-timers. From there, you will find a range of grips and foot-placements greater than any other 5.7 at Pilot, taking you steadily upwards by a variety of lines that will keep it interesting. Not the finest rock, there are some loose pieces; but concentrating will make it even more fun.

Submitted by: Rmsyll2 on 2010-11-22
Views: 638
Route ID: 107355

Most Recent Photo

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: Stone0826 on 2012-12-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Awesome

I have passed this route up a few times due to the odd anchor setup but I finally committed... And boy was it worth it. This route is full of opportunities for different moves and techniques. My friend and I always bicker when we have issues that its a tall mans route or its a short mans route. This route was perfect, there's a tree and a ledge at the top that makes it a easy top belay. Great climb.

PG13 for the anchor location

Added: 2013-01-06

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: chotoken on 2012-05-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Just Plain Fun

Great fun route. To access the bolts I used a sling on the tree just above the bolts. I talked to an older gentelman there who knew the history very well. He said that hanger has been spinning for about 3 years, the other is a little loose too. They are still solid, and you could back it up with the tree above if you want; I did. The route was great, and several lines that are great options. Lots of chance to explore your own style of climbing and movement.

Added: 2012-05-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: Rmsyll2 on 2011-08-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Yes, it is a "spinner".

Many have noticed that the left anchor hanger will spin on the bolt. The nut is as tight as one should be, the hanger is not flopping away from the rock, so it is within safety margins and not a reason to avoid this route. Don't avoid this route, even for the odd difficulty getting down to the anchors. It is not the back-sloped muscle pump of 'Howdy Dude', nor as sandy, and is more plain fun imo than any other 5.7 TR at Pilot.

Added: 2011-08-10