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Gentle Ben - 5.10a

Average Rating = 4.07/5 Average Rating : 4.07 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 27
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (20)
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Rock (Toprope)
G
Very new bolted anchors are hidden under a small slab projecting at the very edge, where a ledge will let you rig. Use min. 3' runners.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.73/5
  Rock Quality 3.82/5
  Scenery 3.36/5
  Fun Factor 4.36/5

Description:

This is the lovely rounded arete at the right end of the Three Bears wall. Start on that face and go straight up near the arete for Kelley's 5.10. Stay on the arete for 5.9. Start on the very juggy right side up to the little roof, cross over if you can, and finish on the front face through the little dihedral for 5.8.

Submitted by: griv on 2007-11-28
Last Modified: 2011-08-11
Views: 1332
Route ID: 46629

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20 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: douglaskinsman on 2013-05-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Lots of fun

would recommend, just watch for some loose stuff towards the bottom.

Added: 2013-05-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: Rmsyll2 on 2011-08-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars New anchors are nice.

With the set-up so much easier with the new bolted anchors, this is becoming more popular, as it has deserved.

Added: 2011-08-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: Rmsyll2 on 2011-03-04 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Easier right side variation.

The start is very similar imo to 'Howdy Dude', followed by vertical 5.6 jugs. If you are going to be able to finish, it is almost a one-move climb. And I almost did not make it over the arete, and had to body jam some to get up the overhang notch. When the rock is not so cold, will try to get better.

Added: 2011-03-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: minime236 on 2010-05-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars fun

fun transition around the corner

Added: 2010-05-31

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: kyleht287 on 2009-07-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Polishing...

The route is 5.10a when you start left of the arete, traverse right up to the roof, and then traverse back left to the thinner face to top it out. Great climb! The variations can be easier or harder. Starting on the right face and then traversing left just before the roof is more like 5.8, and starting left and staying left is more like 5.10a+. This is a classic route at Pilot. Sling the boulder, supplement with gear if you please, and have at it!

Added: 2009-07-01

... Read all 20 ascent notes