This is the lovely rounded arete at the right end of the Three Bears wall. Start on that face and go straight up near the arete for Kelley's 5.10. Stay on the arete for 5.9. Start on the very juggy right side up to the little roof, cross over if you can, and finish on the front face through the little dihedral for 5.8.
Submitted by: griv on 2007-11-28
Last Modified: 2011-08-11
Route ID: 46629
The start is very similar imo to 'Howdy Dude', followed by vertical 5.6 jugs. If you are going to be able to finish, it is almost a one-move climb. And I almost did not make it over the arete, and had to body jam some to get up the overhang notch. When the rock is not so cold, will try to get better.
The route is 5.10a when you start left of the arete, traverse right up to the roof, and then traverse back left to the thinner face to top it out. Great climb! The variations can be easier or harder. Starting on the right face and then traversing left just before the roof is more like 5.8, and starting left and staying left is more like 5.10a+. This is a classic route at Pilot. Sling the boulder, supplement with gear if you please, and have at it!