wild start with 3 bolts on perfect rock leads to a pumpy gear protected finish through a roof and up a very overhanging face. Don't get too pumped to place gear!
Originally sandbagg graded 9+ or 10-. Located just left of Shock the Monkey at the top of the trail.
Submitted by: cragmasterp on 2003-11-21
Route ID: 44700
Finally linked it all together. Great movement and great pro, just have to hang on long enough to put it all together at the top. Run out but easy to the first bolt sets you up for a tricky first roof crux and some fun face climbing. Work up through the crack on good holds to the big roof. Find the best slots for gear (several crappy flakes to avoid) and then power it up and out on jugs. Hardest part is hanging out to place a keyhole stopper but it's so good it's worth doing. Either build a trad anchor with small to medium gear above and a little right of the crack finish or traverse and lower from Shock the monkey anchor.
So good, this should be getting done all the time! More variety than Shock and just as much fun at the finish. Might be my favorite single pitch 10 in NC.