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Stokes County Monkey Trial - 5.10d

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
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Rock
Mixed, small rack of nuts & cams
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

wild start with 3 bolts on perfect rock leads to a pumpy gear protected finish through a roof and up a very overhanging face. Don't get too pumped to place gear! Originally sandbagg graded 9+ or 10-. Located just left of Shock the Monkey at the top of the trail.

Submitted by: cragmasterp on 2003-11-21
Views: 770
Route ID: 44700

6 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: mjwestla on 2016-01-31 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Favorite Sauratown route

Finally linked it all together. Great movement and great pro, just have to hang on long enough to put it all together at the top. Run out but easy to the first bolt sets you up for a tricky first roof crux and some fun face climbing. Work up through the crack on good holds to the big roof. Find the best slots for gear (several crappy flakes to avoid) and then power it up and out on jugs. Hardest part is hanging out to place a keyhole stopper but it's so good it's worth doing. Either build a trad anchor with small to medium gear above and a little right of the crack finish or traverse and lower from Shock the monkey anchor.

So good, this should be getting done all the time! More variety than Shock and just as much fun at the finish. Might be my favorite single pitch 10 in NC.

Added: 2016-02-02

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ab_love on 2006-12-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Sooo cool, do it again and again

No Comment

Added: 2008-11-19

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: chezdillon on 2007-05-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun Route

Fun Route

Added: 2007-05-13

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: whipperman on 2004-02-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Stokes county

Not any harder than shock the monkey. Upper section is steep but gear is good and holds are big enough to wrap your arms around. Use Shock the Monkey anchors.

Added: 2007-02-07

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: climbrox391 on 2006-03-26 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2006-03-26

... Read all 6 ascent notes