Routes : North America : United States : North Carolina : Central : Stone Mountain State Park : South Face - Access Routes to Tree Ledge : Crystal Lizard
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Crystal Lizard - 5.8
Average Rating : 3.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 3
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (16)
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unknown
Rock (Trad)
R
1
Two bolts; small to medium cam placements in the flake.
140
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Description:
A nice friction route with more adrenaline potential than the nearby Block Route or U Slot.Starts about 20' right of U Slot, where a couple of trees grow out of holes in the face. Climb past the trees (keeping them on your left) up and right to a bolt. Move back left to dikes above the trees, then up and right to a large left-facing flake. Continue up the flake, then up onto it and climb up and right to a second bolt. Run it out to ring anchors shared with Rice Krispies at the Tree Ledge. When you've done the well-protected approach routes like Block Route and Dirty Crack, Crystal Lizard is a great climb to up the ante. As you approach the anchors, try not to think about the fact that you're runout maybe 60' above your last bolt. Climb past the tree pods (on your left) up and right to a bolt about 30' up. Carefully traverse back left to small dikes above the last tree, or for extra spice, go straight up over the bolt. Continue up to a large left-facing flake; climb the flake a short distance, then surmount it and move up and right to another bolt. Runout the finish to the Rice Krispies anchors at the Tree Ledge
Descent Options:
Two-rope rap from ring anchors.
Submitted by: saxfiend on 2007-03-15
Last Modified: 2011-03-23
Views: 1323
Route ID: 61605
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16 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 16 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | R |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor |  |
Second ascent by:
Not fun
Followed someone up this one for the second time. Not really fun and I definitely would not want to lead it.
Added: 2013-01-01
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Flash ascent by:
Heady
Felt quite heady and definitely deserved a 5.8+. Feel like the first bolt is off-route too far and slinging the tree is a better idea to stay in the line of crystals. Traversing over to that bolt and back feels harder than 5.8. Run out goodness but solid feet the whole climb.
Added: 2011-11-25
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
pretty exciting
bit of mind control, but reasonable
Added: 2011-11-11
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Top Rope ascent by:
TR
No Comment
Added: 2011-10-31
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
Used Alternate Path
Since there is a large amount of rock between Crystal Lizard and U-Slot, I decided to change it up a bit. I started at the left side of the tree pods instead of the right. At the dikes, I went left and straight up through steeper, mostly blank, unprotected rock to the overlap. I went up and over the right side of the overlap and headed to the belay for U-Slot rather than the belay shared with Rice Krispies. I found this method to be more exciting and a little stiffer than the standard line.
Added: 2011-08-11
