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Entrance Crack - 5.4 popular

Average Rating = 2.96/5 Average Rating : 2.96 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 11
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (45)
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Trad climb. Couple of trees to sling on the way up if you like.
120
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.4
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.14/5
  Rock Quality 3.76/5
  Scenery 2.90/5
  Fun Factor 2.70/5

Description:

Two sections to this climb really. The first follows an easy crack up to a ledge with a good-sized tree. The second section is a real pain if its windy. This is a large off width crack that denies use of most pro (unless your packin big bros). Easiest to climb if you stay just right of the crack. You'll also find an exposes bolt half way up that you can sling with a wired nut.

Submitted by: bulldog on 2002-03-12
Last Modified: 2011-03-27
Views: 3061
Route ID: 13508

45 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.4
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: rocloco on 2016-04-01 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Wider Is Wilder

I led this back in '06 on a road trip and again twice last weekend. It's exactly as advertised. If you want to have a little fun leave your 5"+ gear at home and you'll have a nice 30ft. run out to the ledge on easy climbing.

If you want to feel safe and fuzzy bring 2 or 3 pieces of at least 5" for the top section and you'll be okay. I'm 6'2" and I've got pretty long arms and it's pretty much full extension to get in far enough for a good placement with 5" gear so if you're small bring bigger gear so you don't have to go so far into the crack. The green Big Bros places well in several spots and the blue Big Bros would place in several spots also.

I gave this a G rating since you can easily protect with the right size gear if you want. Just because many climbers choose to do it without (me included) doesn't mean the route is inherently deserving of an R. It's certainly possible to seam it up from bottom to top.

Added: 2016-04-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.4
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: wkfegler on 2014-10-25 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars gets in your head

I forgot how run out the top half is. More mental than physical on this climb

Added: 2014-10-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.4
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: wkfegler on 2013-06-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Runout

as a way to get to the tree ledge, it is useful, but the second half of this climb is runout. good thing it is easy climbing

Added: 2013-06-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.4
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2012-03-11 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Needed Fast Access to the Tree Ledge

I needed a really quick route to the tree ledge so I could set up a top-rope for our group and this was the closest route to our gear since we just climbed the Pulpit. This route can be a little deceptive, use caution if not used to climbing at Stone.

Added: 2012-03-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.4
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: jsaunders on 2011-12-10 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars fun

followed this time. felt much easier with guide tennies on following

Added: 2011-12-11

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