Trad climb. Couple of trees to sling on the way up if you like.
Two sections to this climb really. The first follows an easy crack up to a ledge with a good-sized tree. The second section is a real pain if its windy. This is a large off width crack that denies use of most pro (unless your packin big bros). Easiest to climb if you stay just right of the crack. You'll also find an exposes bolt half way up that you can sling with a wired nut.
Submitted by: bulldog on 2002-03-12
Last Modified: 2011-03-27
Route ID: 13508
I led this back in '06 on a road trip and again twice last weekend. It's exactly as advertised. If you want to have a little fun leave your 5"+ gear at home and you'll have a nice 30ft. run out to the ledge on easy climbing.
If you want to feel safe and fuzzy bring 2 or 3 pieces of at least 5" for the top section and you'll be okay. I'm 6'2" and I've got pretty long arms and it's pretty much full extension to get in far enough for a good placement with 5" gear so if you're small bring bigger gear so you don't have to go so far into the crack. The green Big Bros places well in several spots and the blue Big Bros would place in several spots also.
I gave this a G rating since you can easily protect with the right size gear if you want. Just because many climbers choose to do it without (me included) doesn't mean the route is inherently deserving of an R. It's certainly possible to seam it up from bottom to top.
I needed a really quick route to the tree ledge so I could set up a top-rope for our group and this was the closest route to our gear since we just climbed the Pulpit. This route can be a little deceptive, use caution if not used to climbing at Stone.