We had a top-rope set up for Captain Crunch, so I went ahead and zipped up Rice Krispies as well. I do not really consider top roping a route a proper ascent, only practice. I must have left the jewels at home. It is amazing how much easier the climb is when not leading it. Everyone in our party was able to zip right up it. The runout and shoddy gear placements are completely eliminated. This is another route where the grade is only valid if climbing on lead. I highly recommend taking the time to climb this line while leading.
This is my second time leading this route. The weather has become bearable again and the traction is great. The climbing is a little hairy but quite fun. I set two small cams, a #2 Metolius Master Cam and a #1 BD C3, in the circular dish down low. The climbing between the dish and the small horizontal crack directly above is a bit steep and should be approached with caution. I set three smaller cams in the short crack under the bulge. I then climbed up over the bulge and straight up through some steep rock with some nice crystals that I was able to pinch for holds. I set two more cams and climbed the final crux on Captain Crunch near the top of the route to make it a bit more interesting, finishing at the belay anchors.
I took my first Stone fall on this route about a month ago. I slipped within inches of reaching the U shaped bowl and hit the ground. I was able to slow the fall by allowing my left pant leg to drag on the rock. Luckily, I landed mostly in the dirt. I had a few holes in my pants and some small scrapes on my fingers but nothing more. This time I was able to climb cleanly to the belay anchors with no troubles, my belayer declined to follow.
The mistake I made before was climbing slightly left of the bowl. This time I climbed directly under the bowl and maybe slightly right, where the holds were a little better. I was able to awkwardly place several smaller cams in the bowl, slinging them all together in the hopes that something would hold. From there, I climbed straight up towards a bulge with a small horizontal crack underneath of it. The climbing is steep and intimidating but there are ample mini holds. Do not trend left, there is a nice looking left-facing corner system with ample protection opportunities that is very enticing, however, it is not the correct line and is considerably easier.
There is a nice stance below the large bulge to allow you plenty of time to jam some cams underneath the small horizontal ledge and to rest. Bring cams that work well in shallow placements. The largest I used was a .75 BD and I was able to stick two small C3s further up into the crack. I used several due to the crummy placements, again slinging them all together. The climbing up over the bulge is steep and fairly difficult. I made a slight traverse to the 3rd bolt on Captain Crunch and clipped it for extra protection. Traverse back left and head straight up to the double belay anchors up above the large depression in the rock. Stay on the left side of the depression through much easier climbing than was found below.