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Closer To The Heart - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.14/5 Average Rating : 4.14 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 12
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (8)
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Rock
2 Bolts
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.33/5
  Scenery 4.33/5
  Fun Factor 4.17/5

Description:

This route is between Yardarm and No Alternative. Climb for what feels like a mile to the 1st bolt and then about another half mile to the next. P1 belay is shared w/ Yardarm. Continue to the top on Yardarm

Submitted by: kilgymrats on 2004-11-08
Last Modified: 2011-03-29
Views: 1405
Route ID: 61606

8 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2011-12-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Typical Stone Runout

If long runouts bother you, do not climb this route. The first pitch has two bolts but the first one is a ways off the ground and the second bolt is a good distance from the first. This was my first time back after a break and the runout was a bit hairy. The rock on the first pitch is very solid and provides plenty of holds. The rock on the second pitch is not so good and care should be taken, especially since there is only one bolt between the first and second belays. The last pitch is too easy to even mention. It was still a very fun lead and I would definitely climb it again. This route does not finish on Yardarm, it has its own separate line between Yardarm and No Alternative.

Added: 2011-12-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2011-07-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great Lead Climb

This is my second time leading all three pitches of this route. I had three others following me this time. The rock is excellent on the first pitch, making the runouts up to and past the bolts very manageable. The rock on the second pitch can be loose and flaky so use caution and make sure your shoes stay clean. The single bolt is sufficient protection due to the lower angle of the rock. The third pitch has no protection but due to the ease of climbing, none is needed. I found no need for additional pro and climbed the entire route with just the fixed protection. Don't limit yourself to toproping, this route is well worth taking the risk to lead.

Remember, this route does not finish on Yardarm. From the shared first belay at the flake, go up and slightly right to the bolt that can be seen between Yardarm and No Alternative. You go over two small ledges on the way to the bolt that could possibly accept pro but I don't bother. The runout from there to the belay anchors is long but easily accomplished.

Added: 2011-07-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2011-05-22 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Do Not Fear the Runout

Lead all three pitches in miserable heat. This is a really nice slab route that gets a bad rap for runout, however, it is actually quite mild. The route starts to the left of No Alternative. The first bolt is visible from the base of the route and is more than a few feet up. We took a straight line from the tree ledge to the bolt and the quality of the rock was very surprising. There are ample mini ledges to provide holds and the rock is very sturdy. The two bolts leading up to the flake provided just enough protection and I never felt the need for more. I think the high heat also helped my shoes stick better.

The second pitch goes slightly right off the belay flake. The line stays to the left of No Alternative. A bolt can be seen above some small overlaps from the flake. There is another double bolted belay at the top of the second pitch, then no protection the rest of the way. I decided to keep going at the belay station and continue to the top. There is one last set of double belay/rappel rings at the very top. I'm not sure if they belong to this route or not but there is no indication from the guidebook that any other route ends here. Using a 70 meter rope, I ended up being 30 to 40 feet shy of reaching the final set of anchors and had to do a little simul climbing.

Even though the first pitch had excellent rock, the same could not be said of the final two pitches. Almost everywhere I stepped, the rock crumbled under my feet. I never felt afraid or slipped but I had to constantly clean my shoes to keep traction. I usually rub my shoes against my pant leg to keep them clean but I wore shorts (not very bright if there is a fall) on this occasion. Instead, I wore socks to rub my shoes against. Overall, I think this a really nice lead climb and there is no need to fear the runouts. Remember, No Alternative is just to the right and can provide an easy escape route if it becomes too much.

Added: 2011-05-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: tlannin on 2006-05-09 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Sustained friction

Very pleasing route from a purely aesthetic, friction climbing perspective. We top-roped this after doing Yardarm. Safety rating is X if you try to solo up to the first bolt with no pro.

Added: 2011-01-09

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: jsj7051 on 2009-12-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Close

This is a great climb to toprope if you don't lead runouts. You can climb faster than your belayer can pull rope. I think the rock quality is very good in this area. Loads of fun.

Added: 2009-12-12

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