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Dixie Crystals - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.33/5 Average Rating : 4.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 20
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (10)
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Gerald Laws, Kenny Hibbits - 1978
Rock (Trad) (Sport)
PG13
4
Bolted Need 1 - 4" piece
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.33/5
  Rock Quality 3.83/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

On the far left side of the apron. Goes up bold face left on apron. bolted anchors, 2nd pitch goes left of dimple, crux. 3 pitch is suppose to have a bolt (I never saw it) Start is same as in Dream Waves. Route is located 20' uphill of white way direct ontop of a large block below a vertical dike. P1 - Start from top of large block and climb up and right past 1st bolt and flakes. Continue past a second bolts then to 1st belay. (5.8, 70') Left from belay continues as Dream Waves. P2 - Climb up past "The Navel" to a bolt then straight up passing another bolt to 2nd belay (5.8, 70') P3 - Climb past one bolt and climb diagonally to your left until you reach belay station (5.9, 100'). P4 - Climb up left to alcove and follow the corner above to the top (5.7, 100').

Submitted by: floridaputz on 2004-01-21
Last Modified: 2011-03-29
Views: 1428
Route ID: 47550

10 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2013-01-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great Friction

I like to throw this one in from time to time to mix it up a little. The traction on this route is excellent until you hit the loose rock near the top. Really, you can climb anywhere on this route and stick to the rock. I usually just keep up my momentum and never bother to look for holds. This is an excellent warm-up to start out the day.

Added: 2013-05-14

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: MonkeySpank on 2012-07-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Awesome sustained 5.9

I have been wanted to cross this one off my tick list for 2 years, and finally closed it out today. It is really too hot to climb during the summer but we started around 8am. It is rated true to grade for Stone at 5.9. The crux is just past the navel, but was not too bad. I found a red tricam worked well in the navel on pitch 2. Sun came over the top while we were on pitch 3, which was a real bummer because it complicated visibility and increased the heat by 10 degrees. The views to climbers' left are worth the price of admission. Great route!

Added: 2012-07-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2012-06-03 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Finally Figured Out Correct Line

I had to climb this again because I did not follow the correct line the first time around. I was finally able to figure out the proper line.

Some of the guidebooks show the route starting from the ground and others show the first pitch that starts from the ground as being Dream Waves, with Dixie Crystals beginning at the belay bolts. I guess it doesn't really matter. We started from the ground. This time, I started further downhill at a large pine with a large dish in front of it. I began on the left side of the dish and headed straight up to the bolts, ending at the belay rings.

I headed up to the Navel and on to the first bolt. This is where I messed up the first time due to poor beta. There is not a second bolt between the belays, only the one. The bolt off to the left under the bulge belongs to Zoo Love. It is quite runout to the proper belay from the single bolt, so be prepared. The friction is awesome and you can step most anywhere and stick.

From the second bolted belay, climb up past another single bolt and plenty of runout to a final bolted belay. The route does not go under the overhang on the left, it goes straight up to another bolt. From that last bolt, you can go straight up to a tree and belay or head right to the tree on top of Great White Way and belay. I recommend checking out the beta in the Dixie Crystals guidebook.

Added: 2012-06-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2011-07-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Tough Line To Follow

We climbed this route for the first time today in miserable heat. As with all of our new routes, I lead all four pitches. I would have to say that this was one of the more difficult routes to follow of all that I have climbed at Stone.

Pitch 1 begins just uphill from White Way Direct. According to "Selected Climbs," the route begins on a large block just uphill from a black streak. From there it heads up and right past two bolts to the belay. I found the large block and the two bolts do not follow a natural line originating from it. I had to traverse right quite a ways to get beneath that first bolt. It would have made much more sense to start further downhill. From the first bolt, you need to work up and left towards some flakes, where pro can be placed. The second bolt is up to the right of the flakes. From the second bolt, go back left to the abvious belay that is located just above a horizontal crack/break.

On the second pitch, go up to the "Navel," which is an obvious hole in the rock. The climbing here is a little steep but the friction is great. I really didn't have any pro that fit properly. I did get a .4 Camalot to stay in place well enough to possibly hold a fall. I would say a really large cam would probably work here. The first bolt is up and to the left of the Navel. The guidebook shows another bolt directly above this one. There is a bolt but it is out to the left, leading to a belay. I assumed this was the correct line and followed it. I did notice a belay directly above the first bolt, close to Great White Way, but there wasn't a second bolt in the line as described in the book so I guessed it was another route. The second bolt I followed is located at a bulge with some tough moves leading over the bulge to a belay. I was able to get over the bulge by staying just to the right of the bolt. Once at the belay rings, I could see a line following two bolts up and left from the belay near a water groove but no belay anchors above them. I do not believe this is the correct line, but a separate route. I should have gone past the single bolt and straight up to the other set of belays near Great White Way, which would have been easier than the way I went. I referred to two other guidebooks later and both show a single bolt after the Navel, leading straight up to a belay, further increasing my belief that the line to the left is incorrect.

The third pitch, from the correct belay, leads up and slightly left to a single bolt, then up unprotected rock to another set of belay rings. From my position on the wrong line, I traversed right to the single bolt so I would be back on track. The unprotected rock leading to the belay rings had a lot of loose, flaky rock so use caution.

The fourth pitch can be followed in two different ways, both about the same as far as difficulty. The map in "Selected Climbs" shows the route going to the left near a tree at the bottom of a large overhung corner and going left around the corner. I took this path, slinging the tree, and running it out to the upper trees without protection. The double belay anchor shown in the map is not there, so don't bother looking for it. I have also read that the route goes straight up from the belays at the top of the third pitch and heads directly to the trees at the top, staying above the corner.

Added: 2011-07-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: climbrox391 on 2008-01-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good route

Fun, once you've done it you know why they call it Dixie Crystals. Good intro to 5.9 Stone climbing.

Added: 2008-02-05

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