Routes : North America : United States : North Carolina : Central : Stone Mountain State Park : South Face : Fantastic
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Fantastic - 5.9
Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 7
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
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Gerald Laws, Buddy Price
Rock (Trad)
PG13
4
More variety than usual for a Stone Mountain climb Take a medium sized rack - small cams and stoppers.
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Description:
This is a route that offers an unusual diversity of climbing. You'll find jamming, laybacking, face climbing and friction before you top out. The protection is good where you need it, but make sure you bring a moderate rack of small and medium sized nuts. Friends work very well on the flake. One of the best routes on the mountain, but a total sandbag at 5.9. Sustained crux, but very un-Stone-Mountain-ish. Mount the block at the bottom, then diagonal left using the crack for hands and gear. Crank straight up through the bulge midway out the crack to a bolt. Expando flakes and big, but slick, feet lead through the crux. An old fixed stopper that used to protect the crux is no longer there. Thread a stopper of your own behind the head that the old stopper left behind or slot a #1 TCU. Easier terrain leads to a two-ring anchor. Most parties rap after the first pitch. Starts just uphill of Fleet Feet below a diagonal crack. Locate two large blocks that rest against the wall. Fantastic starts from atop the smaller, right-hand side block at a small tree. P1 - Follow the obvious left-slanting crack up placing gear. About midway up the diagnol crack move up the face using scoops and dished-out areas of rock to a bolt. Continue up more of the same type of face to a second bolt (5.9+). Move up to a right-facing flake, all the way to its end. Make an exiciting move up over the undercling to sloping holds. Continue up to a bolted belay (130'). P2 - The next pitch is a long, rising traverse up and to the left. The pitch climbs past a bolt to a bolted belay at the first terrace (130'). P3 - Step up and right to a small flake. Place nuts at the flake, then continue up to a bolted belay at the second terrace (110'). P4 - Step right then climb straight up over (5.6-5.7) slabs to easy rock. Wander up to belay bolts at the summit.
Submitted by: j_ung on 2011-03-27
Views: 1077
Route ID: 46484
7 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 7 ascent notes
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Flash ascent by:
Ascent Note
No comment
Added: 2006-10-14
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Red Point ascent by:
Ascent Note
No comment
Added: 2005-05-01
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Hang Dog ascent by:
Ascent Note
flashed the crack, and bulge through the 2 bolts, but then looking at the slick feet through the expando flake, i bailed.
Added: 2005-03-30
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| Safety Rating | G |
Second ascent by:
Ascent Note
i'd followed this one my first time at stone. I wanted to show it to a partner who'd never seen it. After taking some time getting to the first bolt (I thought I remembered coming out of the crack under the bulge but I didn't feel solid so I went over to the bolt from the left and clipped it at my feet). Well, ominous winds had kicked up and clouds had rolled in foreshadowing my tenuous ascent. Nearly peeling at least three times (once right off the ground attaining the top of the block) before I placed my last piece - a .75 camalot (which I incidentally bootied on my first stone lead) fate had her way and I took my first whipper just as I was about to gain the easy ground just shy of the anchor. The route was a bit wet in the diagonal crack and there was a water streak up top I had to avoid (sometimes even when wet, Stone retains her friction - not on this route, it is polished and slick). My right hand peeled but my feet didn't and not thinking quickly I rotated backwards (think backdive) and went down head first. My arse took the brunt of it about 30 feet below on a horizontal flake. My nerves were shot - I bailed and left a couple of ovals and my 12 BD nut threaded behind another fixed nut in the flake. Enjoy - I know I will next time... when it's dry!
Added: 2005-03-04
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Ascent Note
Very Yosemite like climbing here. Ball-Z runout to anchors, like you have a choice lol!
Added: 2004-01-03
