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PF Flyers - 5.10a

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 36
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad) (Sport)
PG13
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.00/5

Description:

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Submitted by: nnop on 2011-03-29
Views: 361
Route ID: 108258

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2013-12-01 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Just Messing Around

I am not very keen on top-roping at Stone as it completely removes the the entire mental aspect of slab climbing. However, I have mellowed a little after witnessing a death here last year (not a climber) and falling on this same route exactly one week later.

I had previously lead the very runout first pitch twice. The first time, I just didn't feel good at the headwall on the second pitch and retreated. The second time, it began raining as I was about 30' up with zero gear on 5.10 rock. I attempted to downclimb and made it to about the 20' mark but couldn't go any further without jumping off. Thankfully, the rain stopped and I was able to continue back up. I finally made it to the first piece of pro, a shared bolt with Grand Funk and good 75' off the deck. I was quite nervous by then but continued on anyway. I broke away from Grand Funk and headed up to the belay rings below the headwall. I made it to the first bolt, which still had the red webbing from my last visit. I made it about 10' or 15' past the bolt and slipped. My belayer was not paying attention and I fell a bit further than I should have and jacked my ankle on a small ledge. The two traumatic experiences exactly a week apart took a toll on my climbing for the past year.

Now, just over a year later I decided I wanted to toprope the crux section in the headwall. It was not easy either as there is not much gear up above the headwall. There is a lot of debris and vegetation on this route due to it being an area of tremendous run-off after rain. That probably had a lot to do with its difficulty but I can tell you now that this was more difficult than any other 5.10s I have climbed at Stone and I have climbed quite a few. None of the guidebooks show the climbing in the headwall as being particularly difficult but I beg to differ. I would want to clean it before I lead it. Be very cautious with the first pitch too as it is extremely runout. This is just not a safe route and there are plenty of other routes to choose from. Yes, that red webbing is still there. Well, what was red, it is now mostly black.

Added: 2013-12-19