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Peer Pressure - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 13
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Erik Zeeschi, Robin Hinkle
Rock (Trad)
X
Potential for rope drag. Don't fall on the traverse below the second bolt (5.8 R/X) Take a light rack.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

This is an excellent though somewhat serious route. A moderately difficult (5.8) move must be done just before the second bolt is reached - high groundfall potential. Start at a shallow 15' high left facing corner that lies just downhill from the Fleet Feet flakes. P1 - Climb the corner to its top and a bolt. Move up over a (5.9) bulge to easier rock. A long runout leads to a second bolt high on the wall. From the second bolt climb difficult (5.9+) face to a third bolt. From the third bolt move right and pass through an overlap to an obvious water groove. Climb easily to an intersection with Dream Waves. Proceed to the Dream Waves belay (150').

Submitted by: nnop on 2011-03-27
Views: 403
Route ID: 108212

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2012-06-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Excellent Single Pitch Route

This route is shown in some of the guidebooks to continue on as a multiple pitch route. The beta above is from the Dixie Crystals guide and from what research I have done, it does appear to be a single pitch route.

The start is the same as Wahoo Start and is located to the right of Scimitar at an obvious left-facing corner. You can start directly under the corner or on either side of the corner, with all options being of equal difficulty. Follow the corner up past two huge jugs to a nice stance below a bolt. You can climb to the right or left of the bolt. The left looked fairly easy but I had already climbed to the right on Wahoo, so I went that way. This is a fairly tough move past the bolt but at least it is protected.

There is a good chance for a ground fall before the second bolt but the moves are really not that difficult. After reading all the beta talking about how dangerous this next section is, I was a little skittish. I climbed a little high before making the traverse, just below the overlap, and found a small slot in the crack below the overlap. I was able to finally get a BD #0 C3 to slide deep enough into the crack to get a good bite. I am very confident it would have held a fall. There is a dike leading up to the bolt and I made a very short downclimb onto the dike. I felt like the move up to the bolt was 5.6 at best and I was actually disappointed at how easy the move was.

Getting to the third bolt is much more difficult than it looks. The rock is fairly steep and the friction was terrible. I wasn't able to stick anywhere I stepped and ended up having to move very quickly to keep from sliding off the rock. From the third bolt, move directly to the right towards the water groove in the overlap. It is not very obvious at first and looks quite tough. However, once you figure out the moves, it is rather easy. From the groove, a bolt is visible just above the Dream Waves dike. Once on Dream Waves, just follow it up past one more bolt to a nice bolted belay.

Added: 2012-06-05