A great climb that is actually well protected (by Stone Mountain standards). Pitch 1: Follow the shallow, left-facing corner to a bolt atop a slopey ledge. Traverse due right to another left-facing corner. Follow this up on actual holds (crux) past bolts until it's possible to step right onto the face. Smear past yet another bolt to a two-ring anchor. Pitch 2: Smear up the sparsely bolted face, trending slightly left to a 2-ring anchor under a corner. Pitch 3: Climb up and right on easy ledges until you hit the obvious left facing corner. Pull over the corner and move due right through a water groove to the Oasis. Pitch 4: Climb up and right into the dike that is part of Grand Funk Railroad. Follow the dike up and left, clipping Grand Funk anchors for pro and then head straight up to a small left facing corner for a bolted belay. Pitch 5: Easy 5th class straight to the top. Rappel down the face onto the tree ledge and to the ground.. and rappel from there.
Move left toward the anchors atop the great arch and rap down the face. Two ropes and two raps are possible to get to the tree ledge. Rap off the tree ledge to the ground.
Submitted by: j_ung on 2008-11-13
Last Modified: 2011-03-29
Route ID: 46487
I know that I have been on this route a few too many times but it is just a great route for newbies. I brought along a friend's 11 year old son that was dying to climb to the top and I wanted something a little better than the Arch or No Alternative. We changed it up a bit and climbed the last three pitches of Autumn Speaks instead of the usual finish. I lead each pitch, the kid followed me, and my regular climbing partner followed last. While it was just routine for us, it was the greatest thing ever for the kid. For me, that is what climbing is all about.
There was a threat of rain but it never materialized and we were able to climb all five pitches. Luckily, there was very little sun so it was never too hot. I brought two new guys with me and both climbed the route with ease. I forgot about that darned bat.
With the help from our lead climber, Johnny and the abnormally cool July (85 degrees) a buddy and I made our first full climb. What better climb to make for your first climb then The Pulpit. We even got to see some wild life on the clim, the famous Stone Mt. buzzards, a couple of blue tail skinks and in the lower crack of the flake middle ways of the the third pitch a bat flew out and surprised our lead. Great trip! Thanks Johnny!
We climbed this as a warm-up and I had initially intended to brag about 5.10's Warhawk approach shoes. I had been using them as climbing shoes and lead all five pitches of the Pulpit with ease. I climbed the first pitch of Autumn Speaks and about halfway up I started losing traction. The rubber was just rubbing off the soles of my shoes. It is very soft to begin with and I am guessing it just got too hot. I have only worn them a few times prior and there are already holes in the soles. I would stick with standard climbing shoes for better durability. It was a perfect day for climbing though and we were the only people on the rock.