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White Way Direct - 5.9

Average Rating = 3.62/5 Average Rating : 3.62 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 21
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (11)
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Rock
1
Two bolts; no gear.
90
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.12/5
  Rock Quality 4.12/5
  Scenery 3.88/5
  Fun Factor 3.29/5

Description:

Starts left of Block Route, up a steep rocky drainage. Climb past diagonal dikes to a bolt at a flake, then trend up and right to another bolt and on to the top. Sling the tree for an anchor.

Submitted by: saxfiend on 2006-03-09
Last Modified: 2011-03-29
Views: 1044
Route ID: 46358

11 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 11 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2013-08-24 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Practice Day

Snce I was just trying to get in time on the rock, I started a little further right than normal. This made the distance to the first bolt very long and runout. For those using Selected Climbs, the route description does not match what you will find at the bolts. If you climb straight up from the first bolt, the climbing will be in the 5.10A to B range. You have to go right for climbing in the 5.9 range and then move back left to the bolt. The two bolts don't seem to go together very well, especially since you are heading to the base of Great White Way. It is still a fun climb no matter how you go about it.

Added: 2013-08-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2012-09-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Just Playing Around

One of my climbing partners wanted to climb another route and she refused to climb anything with more than one pitch so she chose this route. I was volunteered to lead. Not much else to say.

Added: 2012-09-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
Onsight Onsight ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2011-04-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Best Way To Start Great White Way

I believe this was originally the first pitch of Great White Way. The start is uphill from the Block Route and is a little bit of a scramble. It starts below some dikes and heads up slightly right past two bolts, eventually ending up beneath the Great White Way. There are many alternative paths that may be taken along the way. There is quite a bit of rock between this route and the Block route. I had to rap back down afterwards to get something and took another, unprotected line back to the top just to make it more interesting.

Added: 2011-06-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: MonkeySpank on 2010-01-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars First 5.9 lead at Stone

Alternative route to Tree Ledge. Traverse after the first bolt is not *hard*, but heady. It is hard to know how to grade routes at Stone, because it's a combination between (1) confidence and experience with your footwork on slab and (2) keeping your cool. After second bolt, I angled right to place a C4 no. 1 under the flake for a last piece of pro.

Added: 2010-01-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: jsj7051 on 2009-02-22 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Correct Way

So this time we went up past the 1st bolt to the 2nd with gear (1 pc) in between , then right traverse to the tree at start of GWW. this was .9ish but I don't look foward to traverses at Stone.

Added: 2009-02-22

... Read all 11 ascent notes