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Strawberry Preserves - 5.10d

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 29
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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Rock
Typical stone mountain slab -- no gear with 30 foot runouts between bolts.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Beautiful pitch with sustained 5.10+ friction moves. Crux comes before the first bolt (25 feet up) so you should be solid at the grade or use a boulder pad. Several notches more difficult than the Tree Ledge friction pitches (e.g. Storm in a teacup and Rainy Day Women).

Submitted by: emilb on 2004-03-29
Last Modified: 2011-03-29
Views: 814
Route ID: 50622

4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2011-10-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Another Tough But Fun Lead

I lead this route after leading The Purring and found it to be tough but not quite as tough as the crux of the previously mentioned route. There did seem to be more fine moss and/or lichens on the rock that made some foot placements a little scary.

There are three bolts on the first pitch with the crux being near the first bolt. I came up just left of the first bolt and my climbing partner climbed just right of the bolt, both ways being of equal difficulty. For the next two bolts, I just aimed for the bolt and tried to take the straightest line possible. There were a few sections that were a little difficult and I did lose my footing a couple of times due to the vegetation. Thankfully, I was prepared each time and didn't fall. It seemed like a long ways from the last bolt to the belay but the climbing was excellent. The rock had good exposure to the sun and was free of the fine, green moss found below.

The second pitch proved to be a little headier than expected and there is no fixed pro. I headed straight up from the belay through some polished rock. I lost my footing several times, without falling, beacause I just couldn't get a grip on the super smooth rock. I felt like this section was nearly as difficult as the lower climbing due to the poor traction. I followed the darker rock up to the left side of the raised rock with a pine tree. I was able to barely place a nut under a horn. I made sure the quickdraw I attached to the nut hung under the horn so that the rope could not pull it loose. I then followed the dark water groove that was carved by the water that comes from the pool in the Oasis. I felt more at risk of a fall on the second pitch than I did on the first. For those that want more protection, head more to the right where there is a nice crack. We stopped at the Oasis but those wanting to continue can finish on the Pulpit.

Added: 2011-10-24

Ratings
  Difficulty
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: csproul on 2005-12-29 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2005-12-29

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: timm on 1987-03-01 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

In 1987, you could sling a branch from the tree that overhung Pandora's box to "protect" the first crux before the bolt.

Witnessed by: Debi Moore
Added: 1987-03-01

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: antiqued on 1986-12-12 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 1986-12-12